Elevation: 1,602 ft
GPS: 38.093, -81.094 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 153,277 total · 998/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Sep 5, 2006 with improvements by Garrison Adams
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This area is on the North/East side of the Gorge, and most cliffs get morning shade and afternoon sun.

Many climbers consider "Bubba Shitty" to be the worst area of the New River Gorge, due to shorter clifflines, chossier, more broken rock, and easier climbs that are short and climb chossy, broken rock. There are without a doubt some gems here, and crags like Sandstonia are popular with mixed groups of beginners and strongmen for good reason. Enjoy the new approach trail, courtesy of NRAC!

Getting There

From 19 Take Ames Heights road west there are a few different parking areas, two main ones, but they aare both about 1-2 miles from 19.

For access to Rubble Rock, Sandstonia/Tattoo Wall, and Kingfish, use the Good Luck Cemetary parking on the left, approximately 1.7 miles from Route 19.  Once you're parked, you'll see the giant powerline cut.  Follow that and signs to get to your destination crag.

For all the other crags, from Little Head Wall to Beer Wall are best accessed from the Bubba City Parking, which you can find on your right, approximately 1.5 miles from Route 19, and is about 2/10 of a mile past Peregrine Ridge Rd.  Cross the street and take the marked trail, following signs.You have reached the Bubba City area after climbing down a ladder and a rope. 

147 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bubba City

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 216
Bobby D's Bunny
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 157
Butterfly Flake
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 159
Shady Lady
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 109
Daisy Cutter
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 309
Geisha Girl
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 333
Mrs. Field's Follies
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 123
Crescendo
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 96
Zeitgeist
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 106
The Good Book
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 251
Decameron, The
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 113
Badass Tattoo
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 111
St. Pauli Girl
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 187
Kinesthetica
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 92
Layback and Enjoy It
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 103
G-String
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bobby D's Bunny Sandstonia
 216
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Butterfly Flake Sandstonia
 157
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Shady Lady Sandstonia
 159
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Daisy Cutter Beer Wall
 109
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Geisha Girl Sandstonia
 309
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Mrs. Field's Follies Sandstonia
 333
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Crescendo Sandstonia
 123
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Zeitgeist Sandstonia
 96
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Good Book Sandstonia
 106
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Decameron, The Sandstonia
 251
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Badass Tattoo Sandstonia
 113
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
St. Pauli Girl Beer Wall
 111
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Kinesthetica Sandstonia
 187
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Layback and Enjoy It Sandstonia
 92
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
G-String Sandstonia
 103
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Bubba City »

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Photos

zachj F  
Given that the various walls are sorted alphabetically rather than E to W or vice versa and can not be ordered that way (as best I can tell) and the map does not show the individual walls, it would be super helpful if somewhere on this page you could fill the reader in on the order of the walls. Additionally, the directions to the walls are widely inconsistent and based on locations of walls that are not given anywhere else (ex. East of one wall and west of another). Assuming one doesn't have the book I cannot see how it is possible to determine the layout of the various walls from what you have provided here. Please feel free to correct me if I am wrong. Feb 17, 2016
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
You're not wrong Zach. I think numbering walls to sort isn't the best option. I've suggested a sorting option for sub areas within larger areas to allow for L to R and R to L just like routes within a sub area.

For now though, I have fixed the Bubba City map and accurately marked each sub area (wall) in the correct location on the map. I also sent you a PM. Hope this helps. Feb 25, 2016