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Areas in Bubba City

Ameless Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Ames Wall 2 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Beer Wall 5 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Bimbo Buttress 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Bubba Buttress 6 / 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Central Bubba 3 / 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
French Wall 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Head Wall 3 / 16 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Headless Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Kingfish 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Little Head Wall 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Rainbow Ledge Area 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Sandstonia 2 / 32 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This area is on the North/East side of the Gorge, and most cliffs get morning shade and afternoon sun.

Many climbers consider "Bubba Shitty" to be the worst area of the New River Gorge, due to shorter clifflines, chossier, more broken rock, and easier climbs that are short and climb chossy, broken rock. There are without a doubt some gems here, and crags like Sandstonia are popular with mixed groups of beginners and strongmen for good reason. Enjoy the new approach trail, courtesy of NRAC!

Getting There

From 19 Take Ames Heights road west there are a few different parking areas, two main ones, but they aare both about 1-2 miles from 19.

For access to Rubble Rock, Sandstonia/Tattoo Wall, and Kingfish, use the Good Luck Cemetary parking on the left, approximately 1.7 miles from Route 19.  Once you're parked, you'll see the giant powerline cut.  Follow that and signs to get to your destination crag.

For all the other crags, from Little Head Wall to Beer Wall are best accessed from the Bubba City Parking, which you can find on your right, approximately 1.5 miles from Route 19, and is about 2/10 of a mile past Peregrine Ridge Rd.  Cross the street and take the marked trail, following signs.You have reached the Bubba City area after climbing down a ladder and a rope. 

147 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bubba City

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 209
Bobby D's Bunny
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 150
Butterfly Flake
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 151
Shady Lady
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 106
Daisy Cutter
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 299
Geisha Girl
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 316
Mrs. Field's Follies
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 117
Crescendo
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 93
Zeitgeist
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 101
The Good Book
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 242
Decameron, The
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 110
Badass Tattoo
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 107
St. Pauli Girl
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 179
Kinesthetica
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 89
Layback and Enjoy It
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 100
G-String
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bobby D's Bunny Sandstonia
 209
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Butterfly Flake Sandstonia
 150
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Shady Lady Sandstonia
 151
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Daisy Cutter Beer Wall
 106
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Geisha Girl Sandstonia
 299
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Mrs. Field's Follies Sandstonia
 316
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Crescendo Sandstonia
 117
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Zeitgeist Sandstonia
 93
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Good Book Sandstonia
 101
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Decameron, The Sandstonia
 242
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Badass Tattoo Sandstonia
 110
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
St. Pauli Girl Beer Wall
 107
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Kinesthetica Sandstonia
 179
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Layback and Enjoy It Sandstonia
 89
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
G-String Sandstonia
 100
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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Photos

zachj F  
Given that the various walls are sorted alphabetically rather than E to W or vice versa and can not be ordered that way (as best I can tell) and the map does not show the individual walls, it would be super helpful if somewhere on this page you could fill the reader in on the order of the walls. Additionally, the directions to the walls are widely inconsistent and based on locations of walls that are not given anywhere else (ex. East of one wall and west of another). Assuming one doesn't have the book I cannot see how it is possible to determine the layout of the various walls from what you have provided here. Please feel free to correct me if I am wrong. Feb 17, 2016
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
You're not wrong Zach. I think numbering walls to sort isn't the best option. I've suggested a sorting option for sub areas within larger areas to allow for L to R and R to L just like routes within a sub area.

For now though, I have fixed the Bubba City map and accurately marked each sub area (wall) in the correct location on the map. I also sent you a PM. Hope this helps. Feb 25, 2016

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