All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Bubba City

Headless Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 05. Headless Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ichabod Crane S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Mo'Verde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pyro Vixen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Elevation:	1,406 ft
GPS:	38.09447, -81.09571 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,634 total · 30/month
Shared By:	Shawn Heath on Sep 1, 2010
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

This small wall has four sport routes, Pyro Vixen being the best. All of them are decent, but none are really classic. However, they're good for moderate climbing. The right-most route is Gimp Verde, then Mo'Verde, followed by Ichabod Crane and Pyro Vixen on the far left (on the arete).

Getting There

Between Little Head Wall and Head Wall. Park at the main Bubba City parking area and hike out the Canyon Rim Trail and come down the second access gully. Hike downstream, climber's left, along the cliff past the overhanging French Wall and the large roof of Great White Shark. Continue over a little hill to a breakdown in the wall. You're now facing Headless Wall, the right side of a small upstream-facing wall with four routes.