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Routes in Head Wall

All Things Considered S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Crisis S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coughing up Fleming S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dreams of White Horsts S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Feng Shui S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great White Shark, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hubba Bubba S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Little Creatures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Reaches From Hell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Skinhead Grin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skinhead Sin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
So Freakin' Fun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stellar Idea S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Take me to the River T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tworgasaminimum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verde Bunyan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Verde Suave S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Eric Horst
Page Views: 718 total, 11/month
Shared By: Colin R on May 18, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is a great line just around the arete to the right of Skinhead Grin. Start with steep dynamic pulling between flat blocky holds to a slight bulge/roof where you must make a huge 3 foot dyno off of some nice incut crimps to a giant hueco (probably 5.11+ to here). After this you have another pumpy 5.11a section for about another 20 feet or so wandering through some horizontal crimpy rails at which point you can shake out before heading left onto the arete. Once on the arete you have a no hands rest and need to perform about a V3/4 slab sequence (8 feet) with horrible feet to make it to the anchor. This final section is very cryptic so don't get frustrated (like I did) - just examine the possibilities. If you want specific beta for the final section I am happy to provide in the comments below.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Colin R
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
 
For a reference this lockoff pictured here is about 3 feet of span. Given that the average human arm is 25 inches (just over two feet) and his lower arm is locked off at 90 degrees that means one foot for his lower arm distance and two for his upper. And he is not even doing a dyno.

mountainproject.com/v/10594… May 5, 2017
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
 
A three foot dyno isn't that far. The average length of a human arm is 2 feet so its just a bit more than that - maybe 2.5 feet? Its a big throw is all I remember.

The slab move at the end was the crux for me. I can only describe how it felt when I did it. The rest of the route is maybe 5.11b tops (with good rests to boo) without those two sections so I don't know why you would think its 12a without a couple of hard cruxes.

Why don't you just downgrade it man? I think that's where this conversation is headed anyways... May 5, 2017
There is no 3' dyno on this route unless maybe, you're 5' tall. And by no means is the high crux V3/4.
It is a bit cryptic, but not V3/4. Apr 30, 2017