All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Bubba City

The Bubba Nest Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 0. The Bubba Nest

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bubba's Talon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Choose the Sword T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Corner Route - Open T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
	Da Mystery of Chessboxin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Dressage Arete T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Friction Slab T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	New Yo-yo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ponyboy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ponyboy Express T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Shaolin Style T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stay Gold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Steep Crack - Open T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

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Elevation:	1,299 ft	396 m
GPS:	38.10257, -81.09713 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	215 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Nate Grygo on Dec 3, 2024 · Updates
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

On a rainy day, I was flipping through the guidebook chewing over what to climb next. I noticed that in the Rubble Rock topo in Bubba City there is an arrow pointing climbers left that says, “More Cliff”.

Following that lead, Matt and I went out to Rubble Rock, walked climbers left, and found “More Cliff”. Walking this cliff section for around a mile, we found quite a few worthy climbs and sectors. I would recommend the area for those seeking a good concentration of easy and moderate trad lines with a backcountry feel (I ran into more black bears than people out here). All lines we did had a relatively easy top out and had decent trees to rap off of. There are no top anchors or protection bolts in this sector.

We popped out to this area a handful of times over the last year and put up ~10 routes. There are a few obvious lines we did not get around to, and there is potential for quite a bit more. In other words, it would be quite easy to walk out here and snag a new line of your own!

Drop me a message if you have any questions.

Getting There

Approach as for Sandstonia and proceed climbers left to Rubble Rock. Continue walking the cliffline, passing Frilled Dog Winkle. The cliff breaks down and there is a large gulley to cross. While the base of most of the climbs are comfortable and allow you to spread out, I appreciated having a trekking pole for the approach.