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Routes in Ames Wall

A Pocket Leaps Now S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Attacktician, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicks in the woods S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chuckles S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cynarete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Czech Vacation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exobubba S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Keine Kraft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Let Them Eat Pancake S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Likmé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lycroscopic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Michelin Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Michelin Man Original Finish S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pounded Puppies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Prickly Bubba T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Radial Rimmed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
She Rides S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smoking Crack S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tasty Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tongulation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Eric Horst, Stuart Pregnall, Rich Cunningham 1988
Page Views: 1,737 total, 26/month
Shared By: Felix Duvallet on May 29, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Definitely the best route on the wall, and one of the best of the grade at Bubba City!

Start with several big moves on small slopers/crimps, which lead to an overhanging section with good holds. Score a great double-handjam rest, pull an awesome move to a good pocket, and head left at the 6th bolt for the 11d finish (the right bolt line is harder). Finish on very cool white rock.

Location

This obvious line is left of a wide crack and the climb Radial Rimmed. In the summer, it is shaded in the morning and late afternoon (the shiny white face near the top would make it hard to climb in full sun!).

Protection

8 bolts, shuts

Photos

BrianWS
  5.11+
BrianWS  
  5.11+
This is quite possibly the best sport route of its grade in the entire NRG vicinity -- even compared to other outstanding 11+ lines like Toxic Hueco.

Rock quality is impeccable, and the movement and technique are highly varied. Nice view of the bridge, too. Apr 21, 2017