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Routes in Head Wall

All Things Considered S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Crisis S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coughing up Fleming S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dreams of White Horsts S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Feng Shui S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great White Shark, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hubba Bubba S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Little Creatures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Reaches From Hell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sangre Verde S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skinhead Grin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skinhead Sin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
So Freakin' Fun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stellar Idea S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Take me to the River T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tworgasaminimum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verde Bunyan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Verde Suave S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Horst / Thompson
Page Views: 996 total · 14/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Sep 10, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Masterpiece Theatre is artsy and thoughtful the entire way with just the right amount of burly moves to get your adrenaline going. Although the steep beginning section looks the most intimidating, the true difficulties are found above on the slopey headwall. A good strategy for maximizing enjoyment on this route is to either top rope it off of “So Freakin’ Fun,” or at the very least lower down the route, give it a good scrubbing, tick some holds and hang all the draws before giving it a good effort.

Begin by scrambling to the top of a pile of choss. Stick clip either the first or second draw. Launch into a series of grippy crimps that take you to some nice jugs at the lip. A long draw on the third bolt may save you some hassle. Next, move sequentially to the right being sure to keep your balance as you set up for the technical crux. Long arms and legs are a great asset to have for this crux. Move beyond the crux through some easier face climbing. There is a no hands ledge right before the redpoint crux. When fully rested move rightward through some crimps to a surprisingly dynamic finish.

Location

Starts up on a ledge 10 feet left of the offwidth dihedral. Look for orange and black crimps on a steep beginning face.

Protection

9 Bolts Plus Anchor

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