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Routes in Sandstonia

5.5 My Ass S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Assman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Badass Tattoo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barb Wire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bass Ackwards S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bikini Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bobby D's Bunny S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Booby Prize S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfly Flake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Celtic Sun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Centennial S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Shaved S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescendo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Decameron, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-String S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geisha Girl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Book, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardcore Female Rash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hepatitis C S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
ISO 9000 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jaws of Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinesthetica S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Layback and Enjoy It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Jungle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mike Tyson's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mrs. Field's Follies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Repetition Max S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pay It Forward S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pure Power S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shady Lady S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witches of Bangor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeitgeist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Eric Hörst, Eric McCallister (2004)
Page Views: 7,605 total · 64/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 9, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Climb the right-trending wide crack to a stance, then head left to the first bolt. Follow 10 more bolts on mostly low angle rock with some high stepping bulge moves up and left to anchors at the top just below the rim.

Location

At an obvious wide crack to the right of the opening block of Bobby D's Bunny.

Protection

High first bolt. A #4 (or #5 higher in the crack) Camalot protects the crack rather well if you don't have a long stick clip to reach the first bolt. 11 bolts + bolted anchor. 60 M rope.

Photos

Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
 
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
 
Those blocks have been loose and marked since my first time there which was about 7 years ago. Though not the pinnacle of quality, loose rock is to be expected outside and is an objective hazard. Though it does detract somewhat from the quality of the route, Geisha Girl is still considered to be a classic. Where else are you going to find 95 feet of slab 5.8 that's bolted and climbs like this one? Regarding the "spiciness" of the route, the difficulty, by most is considered to be slightly less than the neighboring Ms. Field's Follies, and it's only "spicy" because if you fall, you're likely going to hit something on this one. Again, objective hazard of climbing less than vertical 5.8 with healthy holds. I agree that MFF is better, but for the visiting <5.10 climber, this one shouldn't be missed. Jun 23, 2017
Lots of choss - the two x'd out blocks and a handful of smaller blocks up top. Definitely stout at 5.8 and a tad spicy. A fun warm up but not totally sure where the 'classic' reputation has come from except the height. Mrs. Fields Follies is way better. Jun 12, 2017
Stephen Montgomery
Maryland
  5.8
Stephen Montgomery   Maryland
  5.8
This route is fantastic and worth doing, however there are two very sketchy blocks that are loose up top. Both are marked with an "x" however there is so much chalk over both of them the "x" could just easily not be seen. Be careful. Jan 9, 2016