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Routes in The Bank

1979 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
2010A S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2112 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
2150 A.D. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
5.10 Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
5.10a corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.11 Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.9 crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Sharp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Abu Simbel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Aerial Solution S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alcohollica S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alfalfa Omega S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Another Bolted Crack T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aoxamoxoa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Apple Cracks, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aspiring Frog S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
B Flat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
B/C S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baby Face Nelson S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Back To The Future S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bambi Meets Godzilla S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Binge and Purge S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Birthing the Piggy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bits and Pieces S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole Sun S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bridget the Midget S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
British Persuasion S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bum Cakes (formerly listed as Buns) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Burnt Toast S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Butch Cassidy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
C Major T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
CJ & The Lesbian Seagull S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Ate My Homework, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cerebral Brain Freeze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concentrated Weirdness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corner Blitz S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Courage and Enlightenment S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crab Nation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dancin` Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dave Dangle S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deconstructing Harry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Desserter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dillinger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Deed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disciples of Hell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doggie Style T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don Show, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dust Lust S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emperor's Robe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Energy Before Ecstasy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ethics? What Ethics? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Feverish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flesh Tuxedo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
From Russia With Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Future Fossil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gambino S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gen X ation (aka Musso Route) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Generation X S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ginger Midget, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Goodfellas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harry S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Heaven is Waiting S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Heavy Weather S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heretic S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hostile Crankover S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Have a Dream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Cream Hangover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Incredible Weather S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jesse James S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kicker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Killer Chihuahua S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knot Too Many Roaches S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ladies' Night In Buffalo S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Large Marge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Verdon S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Pincher S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lefty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lesser of Two Evils S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Let Me Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leverage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lick and a Promise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lime Street S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Living in America S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lloyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Planet Airman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Louis XIV S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loves Me Like a Rock S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lynch Mob S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ma Barker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Machine Gun Kelly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
McFly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Metamusso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mighty Aphrodite S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mighty Mouse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Misery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mismatched Partners S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Versailles Guy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neopolitan Headrush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Comer (aka New Corner) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Future for the Timid S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Rest For the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Number 1 Super Guy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On the Mushroom S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
On the Ritz S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Once Upon a Time S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Otis S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Peking S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pennies and Piggydust T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Peter Pan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pig City Nights S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pink Torpedo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PiƱon Slalom S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plate Tectonics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poncho S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poncho and the Three Perverts S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Power Broker S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prestevious T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pretty Boy Floyd S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Primal Scream S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project Focus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Puking Yuppies T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pullin' Down in the Fields of Cotton S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Purple Packer Smacker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Purple Reign S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quickstrike S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R.A.M.M. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rack, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ragnar S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Richter Scale S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ripped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Frog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Scarf and Barf S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scarface S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scavenger's Daughter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scramblin' Fran S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Season Down Under S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shady Character S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelf Life T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shelfish S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sicilian Style S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Silver Rain S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sleeper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solitude S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sonic Youth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soprano S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sparkle In The Rain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Starving Hippies S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Staying Power S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stick It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stomach Stapler S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stormy Weather S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stranger in Moscow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sty in the Sky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
SuedeHead S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Surreal Estate S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sweepings, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Taping Tendons S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Team Anorexia S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tendon Respite S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Thank You, Minneapolis! S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
They Only Come Out At Night S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This is Your Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Three Old Dogs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thunder Tactics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thunder Thighs S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tired Arms Recovery Program (T.A.R.P.) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tribal Boundary S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trundle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tuff Shed (aka B&C) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Under The Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.7 (Earth Day?) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 8+ S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unusual Weather S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ussen S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War In The Banks S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Shelf Road S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
What's Biting Me? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Who Asked You? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Why Left S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Will Purr For Treats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You Were Meant For Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
jasonbecker.com S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Howard & Bob D'Antonio, (Stewart Green?)
Page Views: 3,053 total, 36/month
Shared By: Matt Strauser on Dec 23, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1. The start is overhung but juggy through some really neat rock. It is a lot different than most of the stuff at Shelf. After passing the pink rock, continue up the vertical face with small ledges.

P2. You can continue after the anchors past 2 more bolts to another set of anchors (5.11). The crux is down low, but it doesn't let up much after that.

This is a very fun route!

Location

This route is on the Piggy Bank Wall. SLIM is to the right and Flesh Tuxedo is to the left.

Protection

Five bolts (6?) to the first set of anchors.

Pitch 2: ?

Photos

Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
I stopped at the first set of anchors, but I found this to be a fun, well-protected, 5.9. Definitely worth doing! Mar 27, 2017
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
 
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
 
The extension to the upper anchor is really just a one move wonder at 5.11b, an easy candidate for an 11b onsight. However, the crux was probably clipping the bolt above the small roof (1st bolt above the lower anchor). It was very reachy to clip, and blowing that clip will very likely land you on the ledge for the lower anchor. That definitely adds some stress to the onsight attempt. I'm 5'7" with +0 ape index, and I could not reach the bolt without pulling some really sketchy moves on small crimps and bad feet. Once you get the bolt clipped and not looking at a ledge fall, the rest of the extension was actually pretty straightforward. Feb 8, 2016
Brian Lanzy
Boulder, Colorado
Brian Lanzy   Boulder, Colorado
CAREFUL when damp. We got on Flesh Tuxedo (and Pink Torpedo to the right) after a damp night/misty morning. The bottom, dark, oxidized section of these two routes were sweating and felt very, very oily. Pink Torpedo was scary, but we got through it. Waited 4 hours to get on Flesh Tuxedo, but it was still slick, but the lower holds were so huge I decided to keep going. I peeled off of the giant hand-hold at the second bolt while clipping and decked with rope-stretch (bruised heel and slight sprain - no serious injury). Please note that this was well-within my abilities and should have been a pretty routine onsight; I fell off of the section which is maybe 5.10a. Be careful when wet! Oct 5, 2015
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Super classic, must do. Hidden jugs everywhere, definitely still .9. Oct 6, 2013
Mike Howard

  5.9+
Mike Howard    
  5.9+
"The bigger the cushion, the sweeter the pushin'
That's what I said
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand
Or so I have read
My baby fits me like a flesh tuxedo
I'd like to sink her with my pink torpedo
Big bottom, big bottom
Talk about bum cakes, my girl's got 'em" Spinal Tap

FA Mike Howard, Bob D.
9+, 11b. Nov 12, 2011
chinos
 
chinos  
 
A bit sandy down low but very enjoyable climbing all the way to the anchor. Feb 25, 2011
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.9
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.9
This route is more than 5 bolts. I think it is at least 6. I carry 6 on each side and remember running out on my left side. Feb 14, 2011
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.9
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.9
5.8 no way. I tried to finish on this route a few weeks ago after being blown out tired, and I thought I was told it was an 8 and after falling a bunch, I now realize why. It's a 10a. Nonetheless, I led it clean, no problem, first route of the day yesterday. I would say it goes maybe at around 9. The bottom makes it look harder than it is. Feb 14, 2011
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.9+
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.9+
I believe this is a Bob D. and Mike Howard route (put in last spring...). Dec 24, 2010
Matt Strauser
Ft. Collins, CO
 
Matt Strauser   Ft. Collins, CO
 
Love this route. If you know who put it up, please let me know. Dec 23, 2010