Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Howard & Bob D'Antonio, (Stewart Green?)
Page Views: 3,606 total · 37/month
Shared By: Matt Strauser on Dec 23, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


167 Opinions

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Description

P1. The start is overhung but juggy through some really neat rock. It is a lot different than most of the stuff at Shelf. After passing the pink rock, continue up the vertical face with small ledges.

P2. You can continue after the anchors past 2 more bolts to another set of anchors (5.11). The crux is down low, but it doesn't let up much after that.

This is a very fun route!

Location

This route is on the Piggy Bank Wall. SLIM is to the right and Flesh Tuxedo is to the left.

Protection

Five bolts (6?) to the first set of anchors.

Pitch 2: ?

Photos

Matt Strauser
Ft. Collins, CO
  5.9+
Matt Strauser   Ft. Collins, CO
  5.9+
Love this route. If you know who put it up, please let me know. Dec 23, 2010
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.9+
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.9+
I believe this is a Bob D. and Mike Howard route (put in last spring...). Dec 24, 2010
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.9
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.9
5.8 no way. I tried to finish on this route a few weeks ago after being blown out tired, and I thought I was told it was an 8 and after falling a bunch, I now realize why. It's a 10a. Nonetheless, I led it clean, no problem, first route of the day yesterday. I would say it goes maybe at around 9. The bottom makes it look harder than it is. Feb 14, 2011
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.9
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.9
This route is more than 5 bolts. I think it is at least 6. I carry 6 on each side and remember running out on my left side. Feb 14, 2011
chinos
 
chinos  
 
A bit sandy down low but very enjoyable climbing all the way to the anchor. Feb 25, 2011
Mike Howard

  5.9+
Mike Howard    
  5.9+
"The bigger the cushion, the sweeter the pushin'
That's what I said
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand
Or so I have read
My baby fits me like a flesh tuxedo
I'd like to sink her with my pink torpedo
Big bottom, big bottom
Talk about bum cakes, my girl's got 'em" Spinal Tap

FA Mike Howard, Bob D.
9+, 11b. Nov 12, 2011
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Super classic, must do. Hidden jugs everywhere, definitely still .9. Oct 6, 2013
Brian Lanzy
Boulder, Colorado
Brian Lanzy   Boulder, Colorado
CAREFUL when damp. We got on Flesh Tuxedo (and Pink Torpedo to the right) after a damp night/misty morning. The bottom, dark, oxidized section of these two routes were sweating and felt very, very oily. Pink Torpedo was scary, but we got through it. Waited 4 hours to get on Flesh Tuxedo, but it was still slick, but the lower holds were so huge I decided to keep going. I peeled off of the giant hand-hold at the second bolt while clipping and decked with rope-stretch (bruised heel and slight sprain - no serious injury). Please note that this was well-within my abilities and should have been a pretty routine onsight; I fell off of the section which is maybe 5.10a. Be careful when wet! Oct 5, 2015
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
 
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
 
The extension to the upper anchor is really just a one move wonder at 5.11b, an easy candidate for an 11b onsight. However, the crux was probably clipping the bolt above the small roof (1st bolt above the lower anchor). It was very reachy to clip, and blowing that clip will very likely land you on the ledge for the lower anchor. That definitely adds some stress to the onsight attempt. I'm 5'7" with +0 ape index, and I could not reach the bolt without pulling some really sketchy moves on small crimps and bad feet. Once you get the bolt clipped and not looking at a ledge fall, the rest of the extension was actually pretty straightforward. Feb 8, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
I stopped at the first set of anchors, but I found this to be a fun, well-protected, 5.9. Definitely worth doing! Mar 27, 2017
Matt B
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Matt B   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Watch out for a bunch of loose blocks on this route. There were 4 "X" marked blocks on this route, which I believe supports the 10a grade. These are some big chunks that seem almost ready to go.

Also, I second the potential ledge fall danger going for the 5.11 finish. I wouldn't recommend going for it unless you are comfortable with the grade because of the giant ledge below. Apr 1, 2018