Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Zuckerman, Bill Schmausser, Linda, 1988
Page Views: 3,375 total · 26/month
Shared By: jarthur on May 13, 2008 with updates from Stevenstrangeways Hurd
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


136 Opinions

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Description

This climb ascends good holds up the steep red rock leads to a casual face section on big holds. Shake out before the final crux. There are long reaches through the final crux either with low feet for the taller climbers, or higher feet for the vertically challenged. It is not as sandy as the guidebook suggests. In my opinion, this is the best route on the Northern-most end of the Bank North.

Location

This route is located on the Northwest side of the Bank North about 300 feet right of #1 Super Guy. The obvious, steep, red face right of an arete with a clean, white, middle section to a small overhang near the end.

Protection

8 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Surprisingly sharp holds on this one. Apr 3, 2011
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Agreed, very sharp holds but still classic. A great warm-up is just to the right. Oct 6, 2013
Brian Lanzy
Boulder, Colorado
Brian Lanzy   Boulder, Colorado
CAREFUL when damp. We got on Flesh Tuxedo (and Pink Torpedo to the right) after a damp night/misty morning. The bottom, dark, oxidized section of these two routes were sweating and felt very, very oily. Pink Torpedo was scary, but we got through it. Waited 4 hours to get on Flesh Tuxedo, but it was still slick, but the lower holds were so huge I decided to keep going. I peeled off of the giant hand-hold at the second bolt while clipping and decked with rope-stretch (bruised heel and slight sprain- no serious injury). Please note that this was well-within my abilities and should have been a pretty routine onsight; I fell off of the section which is maybe 5.10a. Be careful when wet! Oct 5, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
One of the best routes I climbed on my visit to Shelf. Very fun, safe, straightforward 11a. Mar 27, 2017
Keith W
  5.11a
Keith W  
  5.11a
My first 11a flash at Shelf. Really fun with great rests before the crux. Good route for someone breaking into the grade. Nov 6, 2017
Branty
Boulder, CO
Branty   Boulder, CO
I think this is my new favorite climb in this area. Huge overhanging holds, a good rest, and a fantastic headwall all make this route great. Many more bolts than the old guidebook's quoted 6! Mar 26, 2018
Matt W
Canon City, CO
 
Matt W   Canon City, CO
 
Great route! The crux at the upper roof took bit to figure the sequence, but I am no pro. Suggest taking a nice rest before the roof. The lower section can be a little iffy for decking, STICK CLIP for safety with 8ft pole. I have kids, so I climb a little cautiously. Apr 26, 2018