Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: MJM & RAMM, 12/09
Page Views: 3,001 total · 27/month
Shared By: MJM on Dec 5, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Description

Start on Incredible Weather, and move straight up vertical, sustained climbing to clip C1 on the right. Go to reachy jugs at C2, and continue on great, vertical holds past C3 through C5 to a great, no hands rest up and right. Move up and left to pull the crux bulge straight on with smooth holds or step left at C5 with strenuous hands and tricky hard feet with more reachy / good holds to another rest on top of a small boulder sticking out of the wall.

Sustained climbing through 3 more clips will get you to the anchors.

Location

At The Piggy Bank, this is in between Incredible Weather & Flesh Tuxedo.

Protection & Vitals

9 clips to anchors.

This route is known in previous guidebooks as The Flushings. FA: Mark Van Horn.
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
 
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
 
So MJM, what's the deal with the big drilled pocket right in the middle of your route? Feb 12, 2010
MJM
  5.11b
MJM  
  5.11b
There are no big / large or small drilled pockets in the middle / start or end of our route by us or anyone else we know of.

Nice to see you and your blow by blow aren't bitter. Feb 28, 2010
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
 
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
 
Well, it's there, pretty hard to miss. I wasn't the only one who noticed it.

Edit: not bitter, Mike, I just think chiseling sucks. Feb 28, 2010
Mrs Cracklover
Denver, more or less
  5.11b
Mrs Cracklover   Denver, more or less
  5.11b
There are no drilled pockets on this route. I stared at it for a good long time this weekend, so I'm fairly certain of this. Jan 17, 2011
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
 
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
 
Just because you say it's not there, Mike, doesn't make it so. You're basically calling me a liar, so take a look at the pictures and tell me that's not a drilled out pocket. It's your route - you spent the better part of a day top roping it, marking the bolts, sussing the moves, drilling the bolts, and somehow you just didn't notice the crux hold was massively enhanced with a 3/8" drill bit? So, apparently someone retrochiseled your route. That's fucked up. Whoever you are, please stop manufacturing holds at Shelf, PLEASE.

Mrs. Cracklover - you need to go back and stare at it longer... with your glasses this time. Feb 13, 2011
Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado Springs
 
Kevin McLaughlin   Colorado Springs
 
The hold in these pictures is without ANY DOUBT chiseled/ enhanced /manufactured. I took the pics. The first one was - with chalk, the second was after I washed it with a splash of water. The drill marks are clearly visible in both. They say a picture is worth a thousand words ... I think these pictures speak plainly enough. Feb 13, 2011
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
To the chipper:

"You can build a thousand bridges, but if you suck one c*ck, you'll always be a c*cksucker."

It's a metaphor, think about it. That said, people tend to be very forgiving when you admit wrongdoing and pledge to do better in the future.

If you need to cheat to get up a route, pull on a draw, please don't create holds. Feb 14, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Wow.
What an obvious drilled hold. What a shame.

I remember someone saying something once to the effect of:
"I don't like the idea of injury while climbing so much, and I can't imagine the humiliation of it being on a well-protected 5.8."

Hmmm... chipped down to 5.11a/b and likely overgraded since Shelf mostly is? Wow. So this is the new reality... chipping routes down to 5.11a/b?

I can't imagine ever chipping a route, and I sure can't imagine the humiliation of getting busted doing it down to 11a/b. It would be better just to lie and say you sent the route when you didn't and call it 5.13. At least then you are not 100% likely to get busted.

I kind of hope that the FA party did the drilling and not some random person coming by later and doing it en-retro. The former is much easier to fix. I vote for complete bolt removal and epoxy/rockdust if evidence really suggests that the FA party did this.
How hard is the climb wihtout the drilled holes? If it is significantly harder than 5.11a/b, then obviously that was used on the FA and that's evidence enough that it was part of the route. Feb 14, 2011
GabeO
New Haven, CT
 
GabeO   New Haven, CT
 
Where in the route is that drilled pocket? I was there the same weekend as Mrs. Cracklover, and I didn't see it either. Unless it's in a spot I moved through quickly, I'm starting to think someone added it after we did the route. Mar 9, 2011
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
 
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
 
Hey Gabe, it's right as you step leftward off the rest ledge midway. It is hard to spot as you climb, there are low footholds going left from the ledge and a blind reach over a bulgy section where the drilled pocket is. It is basically in the middle of what I thought was the crux (my right hand was in the pocket as I go for the big flat ledge on top of the next block feature).
It is not a recent thing, it was there when I climbed it in February last year. Mar 11, 2011
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
The drilled pocket mars what otherwise is a pretty good route. Bummer. Apr 10, 2011
Chris Perkins
Buena Vista, Colorado
  5.11b
Chris Perkins   Buena Vista, Colorado
  5.11b
Yep, that looks drilled. Funny thing, I don't think I used it anyway. Jan 19, 2013
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
This is an amazing route. It sucks someone drilled a pocket, but stop bitching about it, and go climb this otherwise awesome route. It goes at same grade without the drilled pocket anyway. Mar 21, 2017