Type: Trad, Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,275 total · 11/month
Shared By: Dan 60D5H411 on May 4, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

16 Opinions

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This is rarely climbed, probably due to its mixed nature. Natural gear is required along the top crack.


It is the middle route on the buttress to the left of Flesh Tuxedo.


4 bolts and gear (1/2 to 1 inch) to the anchors.


Colorado Springs
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
This is just left of Gen X ation aka the Musso Route and is a couple of letter grades harder. There is a right option that requires some trad through the crack or a runout thin left variation that doesn't. Bob D's new Shelf book calls the right variation listed here as 11c and the left as 11a. Feb 14, 2011
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Agreed with Micah. This climb is undoubtedly 11b/c and not a, as listed in Bob's book. Surprisingly good route with engaging crux! Jan 13, 2014
With my next batch of pamphlets, I'll kick this up to 5.11c. Did this route right after Richard and Chris put it in. I may have been climbing better back then. Jan 14, 2014
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
I think Bob's book has the ratings reversed. The left line is 5.11c, and the middle line which requires gear is 5.11a. It probably feels harder, since the bolts are very old and getting gear in the upper crack is from a pumpy stance.

NOTE: the pictures above show the bolts on the left line being clipped and not the middle line. May 9, 2016