Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: MJM & RAMM, 1/11
Page Views: 1,669 total · 18/month
Shared By: MJM on Jun 4, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Start on low angled rock to gain C1. Go with sustained vertical climbing on crimpers and pockets to C3. At C3, move right to the big block undercling and go straight up on big holds with sustained climbing to and past C4. Lunge to a big, reachy, flat hold with a killer, hidden locker behind it at C5. Hang back then jet up and left to the hard to clip anchors.

Location

At The Piggy Bank, this is in between Tuff Shed & The Don Show.

Protection

5 clips to anchors.

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
That would be me in the first two photos. We didn't know which route this was. Now I know. Jun 5, 2011
Like a lot of the routes in this area, the bolting job is suspect. Why put the anchors out of reach and off the line? The crux of the route is clipping the anchors. May 6, 2012
One of the guys today said Bob R. has this as 10c in his new guidebook. There's two harder moves on the route that would make it hard to argue against that rating. Always subjective, of course, but they did seem harder than typical 10a's for the area. Nov 18, 2012
Lauren D. Hollingsworth
Colorado and Kentucky
  5.10b
Lauren D. Hollingsworth   Colorado and Kentucky
  5.10b
The crux is clipping the anchors, I fully agree. The route has moves harder than what is consistent with .10a in the area, I agree. However, the movement up to the anchors is great fun!

For an even better experience, move 5 routes to the right and climb Heaven Is Waiting. Feb 16, 2014
Steve K
  5.10a/b
Steve K  
  5.10a/b
Height-dependent. 10a if you're tall; closer to 10b or 10c if you're shorter. Fun, short climb. I'd agree with everyone that the crux is clipping the anchors. Sep 8, 2014