Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: MJM and RAMM, Dec. 2011
Page Views: 2,781 total · 33/month
Shared By: Rich F. on Jan 29, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


72 Opinions

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Description

This is a new bolted route that may follow a previously trad line up under a roof, into a large offwidth/chimney, then up a finger crack to anchors. There are good jugs down low to the roof, the offwidth actually provides a good rest -- the crux is the finger crack at the top before the anchors.

Location

The route is between Generation X and Heaven is Waiting. The wide crack above the small roof makes it easy to find. (See the photo of Mike on lead.)

Protection

This was newly bolted by someone, with nice spacing and protection on lead. There are about 9 bolts to two bolt anchors.

Photos

dancesatmoonrise
  5.10c
dancesatmoonrise  
  5.10c
Great pro. The technical crux is near the top. The roof is a jug haul with a couple of nice hand jams; the chimney is interesting. Overall, an enjoyable route. Oct 13, 2012
Chad Elliott
Las Vegas
  5.10c
Chad Elliott   Las Vegas
  5.10c
Really enjoyed this route. Sweet finger crack up top that stays with you till the end! Oct 4, 2017
Keith W
  5.10c
Keith W  
  5.10c
Fun route! The roof is really fun and mellow, and the finger crack is very fun. Bomber finger locks will allow you to rest before gunning for the anchor. There was some loose rock on the route though. One of the low holds near the first bolt flexes, I knocked a rock out of the pod above the roof, and the left anchor bolt's nut was loose. We hand tightened, but someone needs to go torque it good. Nov 12, 2018