Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bob and Carrie Robertson
Page Views: 1,487 total · 20/month
Shared By: Dan 60D5H411 on Dec 13, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

Follow the line of weakness up right and then left, passing a very suspicious and hollow sounding block below the anchors.

Location

This route is located on the Piggy Bank Buttress that includes Crab Nation. The buttress has a shady, right-facing dihedral on its far right side. This route lies just to the right of that dihedral.

Protection

5 bolts to coldshut anchors.

Photos

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
The route is Poncho. FA Bob and Carrie Robertson. Mar 31, 2013
Eric Internicola
Westminster, CO
 
Eric Internicola   Westminster, CO  
 
I found this to be a fun lead. It did have a couple of pumpy moves through the crux. The anchors look like they could use some updating (old coldshuts with surface rust). Also note there are some loose blocks on this route in places. May 18, 2014
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
This anchor is a lot better than most but looks a little suspect, because the hangers are unique. I'm glad for both the photo and Eric's comment and will inspect.

Back when these 1/2" welded cold-shuts where made, Bob Robertson showed many of us his bolting workshop. Bob Robertson is the only metal artist I'm aware of who ever made such perfect anchor hangers. Fat radius! Very soft on ropes - much longer wearing and stronger than the usual 3/8" welded cold shuts. Feb 26, 2016
Matt Jones
Colorado Springs, CO
Matt Jones   Colorado Springs, CO
My mom was leading this route today and pulled off a large (2 foot diameter) piece of rock. The rock missed my dad who was belaying, but mom took a bad fall and shattered her ankle and will need surgery. We have never had a problem in the past with loose rock on this route. Please be careful on this one. May 8, 2016
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Matt, so sorry to hear of your mom's injury! I wish her well on the surgery and healing! Jun 30, 2016
BryanGoat Hawkins  
  5.8
The left nut on the anchor is loose, I didn't have a wrench!
3/05/2017 Mar 5, 2017
Matt B
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Matt B   Boulder, CO
  5.8
This route seems to have cleaned up well, and I thought it was an enjoyable climb at the grade. I didn't find any particularly loose or sketchy rock on the route. The small roof is really fun, and there are some interesting features that are fun to climb. Apr 1, 2018
sibylle Hechtel
Colorado
 
sibylle Hechtel   Colorado
 
There are still some small loose pieces of rock to the right and below the anchors. It could use a little more cleaning (and possibly new anchor bolts). Apr 19, 2018