Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Darryl Roth & Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 1,557 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dan 60D5H411 on May 4, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Start below a shallow corner, staying either to the right on the face or use the large, scary flake on the left. Juggy pockets lead to a good stance followed by a thin and technical face.

Location

This is the leftmost route on the first buttress to the left of Flesh Tuxedo.

Protection

6 bolts to anchor.

Photos

Dan 60D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
Dan 60D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
With the addition of all the new routes in the area, this one should become more popular. I admit to climbing a little right of the bolt line but the moves were very engaging. Feb 13, 2010
Mrs Cracklover
Denver, more or less
  5.11a/b PG13
Mrs Cracklover   Denver, more or less
  5.11a/b PG13
I thought this was a really nice route. Got around a height-dependent move by de-sand-ifying a teeny tiny girly mono. Jan 17, 2011
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
Bob's new guide says 5.11a. The crux move is definitely harder than that. Apr 10, 2011
Greetings all,

I climbed this route a few weekends back and agree that it is fun, albeit solid .11a. Other than the difficulty I was bit surprised by two things:

1. The bolt line seems to be way left of the actual line that would go in the 5.11 range.
2. The quality of the bolts and hangers, with the exception of the first recently replaced one, really left something to be desired.

I feel with the popularity of the Piggy Bank now that this line, with proper updating could be really worthwhile. I am curious if anyone knows who the original equipper is or who put up the FA? I would really like to replace the old bolts (especially the Star drive at the top) with new 1/2" stainless bolts and hangers. I also feel that if you are going to go through all the trouble to update the climb, it would also benefit from moving the bolts a few feet right to follow the actual climb in an effort to make clipping easier and falls without the additional pendulum swing. Thanks. LD Oct 29, 2013
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
Per the 2005 Knapp guide, FA: Darryl Roth & Mark Van Horn. You should be able to contact Darryl through this site. Oct 31, 2013
It's apparent that the original line has fallen into disuse and a more natural and easier sequence has become the accepted climb here. I've given Lucas my OK for the rebolting and would say that if the original is not what is being climbed, then it's perhaps better to rename it with a community of first ascentionists who are climbing what's natural instead of trying to squeeze every drip of hard out of the Shelf Road resource. Starving Hippies may now be an irrelevant footnote remaining in old guidebooks. Nov 25, 2013