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Number 1 Super Guy
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.1 from 271
votes
Routes in 01. Piggy Bank
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2010A S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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[Redacted] S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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[Redacted] S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Abu Simbel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Alcohollica S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Apple Cracks aka SLIM, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Birthing the Piggy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bum Cakes (formerly listed as Buns) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crab Nation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dirty Deed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Disciples of Hell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Doggie Style T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Don Show, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flesh Tuxedo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gambino S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Geek USA S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gen X ation (aka Musso Route) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Generation X S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Harry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Heaven is Waiting S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Heretic S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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I'm So Wet S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Incredible Weather S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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jasonbecker.com S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Ladies' Night In Buffalo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Large Marge S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lefty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lick and a Promise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Limestone Cowboy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lloyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Misery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Number 1 Super Guy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Old But Not Dead S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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One Tough Waterjug S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pennies and Piggydust T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Pig City Nights S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pink Torpedo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pink Torpedo (extension) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Piñon Slalom S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poncho S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Prestevious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Project Focus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Puking Yuppies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Season Down Under S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shady Character S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shelf Life T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Silver Rain S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sky, Blue Sky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Starving Hippies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stranger in Moscow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sty in the Sky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sweepings, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tuff Shed (aka B&C) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown 5.7 (Earth Day?) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown 8+ aka Fuddy Duddy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ussen S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Who Asked You? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Y- Left (submitted as Why Left) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Gonzales, Dave Dangle, Eric Harp, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 17,254 total · 59/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
What an amazing roof! This has the potential to be a complete sandbag at 11a, you are forewarned!
For the roof lover - the only reason the climb isn't 3 stars is the loose start. Climb a easy, slightly loose, stemming dihedral with a piece of pro or two to a ledge. Climb the balancy, fun face to beneath the roof. Clip the bolt behind you on the roof. Sandbagged with bad beta, I climbed this the hard way with the most tremendous reach I've ever made. There is an easier way, but I'll let you puzzle this one out yourself.
For the roof lover - the only reason the climb isn't 3 stars is the loose start. Climb a easy, slightly loose, stemming dihedral with a piece of pro or two to a ledge. Climb the balancy, fun face to beneath the roof. Clip the bolt behind you on the roof. Sandbagged with bad beta, I climbed this the hard way with the most tremendous reach I've ever made. There is an easier way, but I'll let you puzzle this one out yourself.
Location
It is difficult to find. It is in the north end of the north wall of the Bank. Between Quarry Wall (Dust Lust, A Sharp) and #1 Super Guy, there are low cliffs with few lines then a gully. The next cliff band has #1 Super Guy on the far left side climbing the prominent roof, but the approach is from the road up to the right side of this wall (several routes here: Starving Hippies, 11b/c; Incredible Weather, 12c/d; and Flesh Tuxedo, 11b, among others) then hike left along the cliff to find the line.
Photos
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