Type: Sport, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: Kevin Gonzales, Dave Dangle, Eric Harp, 1988
Page Views: 17,133 total · 61/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

What an amazing roof! This has the potential to be a complete sandbag at 11a, you are forewarned!

For the roof lover - the only reason the climb isn't 3 stars is the loose start. Climb a easy, slightly loose, stemming dihedral with a piece of pro or two to a ledge. Climb the balancy, fun face to beneath the roof. Clip the bolt behind you on the roof. Sandbagged with bad beta, I climbed this the hard way with the most tremendous reach I've ever made. There is an easier way, but I'll let you puzzle this one out yourself.

Location Suggest change

It is difficult to find. It is in the north end of the north wall of the Bank. Between Quarry Wall (Dust Lust, A Sharp) and #1 Super Guy, there are low cliffs with few lines then a gully. The next cliff band has #1 Super Guy on the far left side climbing the prominent roof, but the approach is from the road up to the right side of this wall (several routes here: Starving Hippies, 11b/c; Incredible Weather, 12c/d; and Flesh Tuxedo, 11b, among others) then hike left along the cliff to find the line.

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts? or so to 2 bolt anchor. A couple medium nuts will protect the start.