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Routes in The Bank

1979 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
2010A S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2112 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
2150 A.D. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
5.10 Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
5.10a corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.11 Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.9 crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Sharp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Abu Simbel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Aerial Solution S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alcohollica S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alfalfa Omega S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Another Bolted Crack T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aoxamoxoa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Apple Cracks, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aspiring Frog S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
B Flat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
B/C S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baby Face Nelson S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Back To The Future S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bambi Meets Godzilla S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Binge and Purge S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Birthing the Piggy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bits and Pieces S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole Sun S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bridget the Midget S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
British Persuasion S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bum Cakes (formerly listed as Buns) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Burnt Toast S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Butch Cassidy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
C Major T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
CJ & The Lesbian Seagull S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Ate My Homework, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cerebral Brain Freeze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concentrated Weirdness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corner Blitz S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Courage and Enlightenment S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crab Nation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dancin` Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dave Dangle S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deconstructing Harry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Desserter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dillinger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Deed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disciples of Hell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doggie Style T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don Show, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dust Lust S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emperor's Robe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Energy Before Ecstasy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ethics? What Ethics? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Feverish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flesh Tuxedo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
From Russia With Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Future Fossil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gambino S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gen X ation (aka Musso Route) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Generation X S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ginger Midget, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Goodfellas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harry S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Heaven is Waiting S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Heavy Weather S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heretic S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hostile Crankover S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Have a Dream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Cream Hangover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Incredible Weather S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jesse James S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kicker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Killer Chihuahua S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knot Too Many Roaches S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ladies' Night In Buffalo S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Large Marge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Verdon S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Pincher S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lefty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lesser of Two Evils S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Let Me Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leverage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lick and a Promise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lime Street S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Living in America S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lloyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Planet Airman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Louis XIV S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loves Me Like a Rock S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lynch Mob S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ma Barker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Machine Gun Kelly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
McFly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Metamusso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mighty Aphrodite S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mighty Mouse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Misery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mismatched Partners S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Versailles Guy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neopolitan Headrush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Comer (aka New Corner) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Future for the Timid S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Rest For the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Number 1 Super Guy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On the Mushroom S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
On the Ritz S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Once Upon a Time S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Otis S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Peking S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pennies and Piggydust T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Peter Pan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pig City Nights S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pink Torpedo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PiƱon Slalom S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plate Tectonics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poncho S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poncho and the Three Perverts S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Power Broker S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prestevious T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pretty Boy Floyd S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Primal Scream S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project Focus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Puking Yuppies T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pullin' Down in the Fields of Cotton S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Purple Packer Smacker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Purple Reign S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quickstrike S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R.A.M.M. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rack, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ragnar S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Richter Scale S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ripped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Frog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Scarf and Barf S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scarface S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scavenger's Daughter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scramblin' Fran S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Season Down Under S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shady Character S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelf Life T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shelfish S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sicilian Style S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Silver Rain S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sleeper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solitude S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sonic Youth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soprano S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sparkle In The Rain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Starving Hippies S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Staying Power S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stick It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stomach Stapler S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stormy Weather S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stranger in Moscow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sty in the Sky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
SuedeHead S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Surreal Estate S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sweepings, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Taping Tendons S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Team Anorexia S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tendon Respite S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Thank You, Minneapolis! S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
They Only Come Out At Night S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This is Your Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Three Old Dogs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thunder Tactics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thunder Thighs S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tired Arms Recovery Program (T.A.R.P.) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tribal Boundary S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trundle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tuff Shed (aka B&C) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Under The Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.7 (Earth Day?) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 8+ S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unusual Weather S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ussen S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War In The Banks S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Shelf Road S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
What's Biting Me? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Who Asked You? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Why Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Will Purr For Treats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You Were Meant For Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
jasonbecker.com S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Kevin Gonzales, Dave Dangle, Eric Harp, 1988
Page Views: 9,724 total, 48/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

What an amazing roof! This has the potential to be a complete sandbag at 11a, you are forewarned!

For the roof lover - the only reason the climb isn't 3 stars is the loose start. Climb a easy, slightly loose, stemming dihedral with a piece of pro or two to a ledge. Climb the balancy, fun face to beneath the roof. Clip the bolt behind you on the roof. Sandbagged with bad beta, I climbed this the hard way with the most tremendous reach I've ever made. There is an easier way, but I'll let you puzzle this one out yourself.

Location

It is difficult to find. It is in the north end of the north wall of the Bank. Between Quarry Wall (Dust Lust, A Sharp) and #1 Super Guy, there are low cliffs with few lines then a gully. The next cliff band has #1 Super Guy on the far left side climbing the prominent roof, but the approach is from the road up to the right side of this wall (several routes here: Starving Hippies, 11b/c; Incredible Weather, 12c/d; and Flesh Tuxedo, 11b, among others) then hike left along the cliff to find the line.

Protection

5 bolts? or so to 2 bolt anchor. A couple medium nuts will protect the start.
Keith W
  5.11a
Keith W  
  5.11a
Super fun! Classic movement and the position is amazing. Do it! Nov 6, 2017
Bryan Weis
Costa Mesa
Bryan Weis   Costa Mesa
My climbing partner, Aaron Kutzer, and I were pulling through the roof on the big block, and we both felt it move slightly. Aaron noticed that if the block were to come off the bolt just above the roof, which is clipped, it may go with it causing major injury to both the lead climber and possibly the belayer. Just a major heads up. Oct 10, 2017
Brendan Armesy
Fort Collins CO
Brendan Armesy   Fort Collins CO
This route is fun! So cool to find a roof like this. I think there are 8 bolts on the route? If you're feeling wild but agree with everyone else, it's jug city over that roof. Aug 8, 2017
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11a
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11a
Tackling the roof straight on with the thin crack, bad feet, and reachy finger lock would be really hard, maybe 5.12 hard? The 5.11a version follows the obvious, chalked up jugs. It is still a little reachy for short folks and a little hard on the onsight attempt, because you cannot see the jug over the lip, but once you find the bucket hold, you'll never fall off of it. One of the coolest 5.11s at Shelf. Feb 8, 2016
Will Sharp
Breck, CO
 
Will Sharp   Breck, CO
 
There is a new bolt at the bottom, so no gear is required to do this climb. Also the bottom section seems to have cleaned up, because it is relatively solid now.

Best 11 on the Piggy Bank for sure! Jun 7, 2015
Pink Thunder
Lakewood
Pink Thunder   Lakewood
Soft for 11a no way! Felt more like 11c. Regardless, super fun route. Never seen a roof like this at Shelf! And thanks for the bail biner, whoever left an industrial-strength locker underneath the roof. Woop, woop. Apr 5, 2014
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
One of Piggy's greatest. Do. Jugs galore after the roof! Oct 20, 2013
Ben Hall
Boulder, Colorado
 
Ben Hall   Boulder, Colorado
 
A MUST DO. Soft 11a if you're comfortable on 11s and 12s, but it is an ulta-classic and easily the best route at the Piggy Bank! Feb 14, 2013
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.11a
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.11a
Awesome climb. The gear is straightforward, and the 2nd half of the climb is superb. Get on this route - so much fun on the super hero jugs! Mar 10, 2011
Chris I
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Chris I   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
This climb is awesome. The section down low is 5.7, and the rock is better than it looks. Just choose your holds wisely and you'll be fine. What makes this route classic and unique for Shelf is the completely horizontal roof. The moves on this thing will make your butt pucker, and you may feel a little faint after clipping the bolt above the roof. It's not often you get to do a one-arm dangling clip at Shelf! Apr 13, 2010
What do you mean, Jesse - bad beta for #1 Super Guy! If you want to escape the roof to the left well OK - but what's the point when you have a awesome roof, a good finger lock, and a bolt at your waist when you make the reach to pull this mini-classic roof! Feb 27, 2002