Type: Sport
FA: Kevin Gonzales, Dave Dangle, Eric Harp, 1988
Page Views: 10,868 total · 50/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


159 Opinions

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Description

What an amazing roof! This has the potential to be a complete sandbag at 11a, you are forewarned!

For the roof lover - the only reason the climb isn't 3 stars is the loose start. Climb a easy, slightly loose, stemming dihedral with a piece of pro or two to a ledge. Climb the balancy, fun face to beneath the roof. Clip the bolt behind you on the roof. Sandbagged with bad beta, I climbed this the hard way with the most tremendous reach I've ever made. There is an easier way, but I'll let you puzzle this one out yourself.

Location

It is difficult to find. It is in the north end of the north wall of the Bank. Between Quarry Wall (Dust Lust, A Sharp) and #1 Super Guy, there are low cliffs with few lines then a gully. The next cliff band has #1 Super Guy on the far left side climbing the prominent roof, but the approach is from the road up to the right side of this wall (several routes here: Starving Hippies, 11b/c; Incredible Weather, 12c/d; and Flesh Tuxedo, 11b, among others) then hike left along the cliff to find the line.

Protection

5 bolts? or so to 2 bolt anchor. A couple medium nuts will protect the start.
What do you mean, Jesse - bad beta for #1 Super Guy! If you want to escape the roof to the left well OK - but what's the point when you have a awesome roof, a good finger lock, and a bolt at your waist when you make the reach to pull this mini-classic roof! Feb 27, 2002
Chris I
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Chris I   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
This climb is awesome. The section down low is 5.7, and the rock is better than it looks. Just choose your holds wisely and you'll be fine. What makes this route classic and unique for Shelf is the completely horizontal roof. The moves on this thing will make your butt pucker, and you may feel a little faint after clipping the bolt above the roof. It's not often you get to do a one-arm dangling clip at Shelf! Apr 13, 2010
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.11a
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.11a
Awesome climb. The gear is straightforward, and the 2nd half of the climb is superb. Get on this route - so much fun on the super hero jugs! Mar 10, 2011
Ben Hall
Boulder, Colorado
 
Ben Hall   Boulder, Colorado
 
A MUST DO. Soft 11a if you're comfortable on 11s and 12s, but it is an ulta-classic and easily the best route at the Piggy Bank! Feb 14, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
One of Piggy's greatest. Do. Jugs galore after the roof! Oct 20, 2013
Pink Thunder
Sacramento, CA
Pink Thunder   Sacramento, CA
Soft for 11a no way! Felt more like 11c. Regardless, super fun route. Never seen a roof like this at Shelf! And thanks for the bail biner, whoever left an industrial-strength locker underneath the roof. Woop, woop. Apr 5, 2014
Will Sharp
Breck, CO
 
Will Sharp   Breck, CO
 
There is a new bolt at the bottom, so no gear is required to do this climb. Also the bottom section seems to have cleaned up, because it is relatively solid now.

Best 11 on the Piggy Bank for sure! Jun 7, 2015
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11a
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11a
Tackling the roof straight on with the thin crack, bad feet, and reachy finger lock would be really hard, maybe 5.12 hard? The 5.11a version follows the obvious, chalked up jugs. It is still a little reachy for short folks and a little hard on the onsight attempt, because you cannot see the jug over the lip, but once you find the bucket hold, you'll never fall off of it. One of the coolest 5.11s at Shelf. Feb 8, 2016
Brendan Armesy
Fort Collins CO
Brendan Armesy   Fort Collins CO
This route is fun! So cool to find a roof like this. I think there are 8 bolts on the route? If you're feeling wild but agree with everyone else, it's jug city over that roof. Aug 8, 2017
Bryan Weis
Costa Mesa
Bryan Weis   Costa Mesa
My climbing partner, Aaron Kutzer, and I were pulling through the roof on the big block, and we both felt it move slightly. Aaron noticed that if the block were to come off the bolt just above the roof, which is clipped, it may go with it causing major injury to both the lead climber and possibly the belayer. Just a major heads up. Oct 10, 2017
Keith W
  5.11a
Keith W  
  5.11a
Super fun! Classic movement and the position is amazing. Do it! Nov 6, 2017
Ben Hobgood
Conifer, CO
 
Ben Hobgood   Conifer, CO
 
Big rain storm/lightning pushed me off this Friday, free locker on the bolt past the roof to whoever gets up that thing next. May 21, 2018