Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: MJM & RAMM, 2/08
Page Views: 10,886 total · 85/month
Shared By: MJM on May 25, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


220 Opinions

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Description

Start with some stemming and face holds to get to clip 1.
Move to the face for some sustained climbing for 3 clips to a reachy hold under the bulge. Lieback the bulge moving left with killer fingers for 2 clips to the anchors.

Location

At The Piggy Bank, start left of Incredible Weather.

Protection

6 clips to anchors.
Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Dave Pilot   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Really fun with wonderful pockets, a really cool finish, and miles from the crowds at Cactus Cliff! May 25, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Super fun movement over fairly sustained 5.9 to .10a ground. Great rests and awesome finish! One of the best routes I've climbed at Shelf. Dec 27, 2010
slim

  5.10-
slim    
  5.10-
This is a really good route, probably the best 10 in the area. Feb 22, 2011
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.10a
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.10a
Wow - really enjoyed this route. Best 10 that I have climbed at Shelf yet! Mar 7, 2011
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Really good route with fun moves. Apr 10, 2011
Chris Oshiro
Pueblo, CO
 
Chris Oshiro   Pueblo, CO
 
As of right now 7/7/2012, there is a large hornets nest between the 1st and 2nd bolts. Will spray ASAP on an evening session. Jul 7, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Very good climb! Fun top, too. Jan 2, 2014
Julia  
One of the better 10s at Shelf for sure. Enjoyable climbing from the bottom to the top. May 21, 2015
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.10a
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.10a
Great climbing on bullet hard limestone which is rare for routes at this grade. One of the best 5.10s at Shelf. Feb 8, 2016
Evan Crumpecker
Colorado Springs
 
Evan Crumpecker   Colorado Springs
 
I love this climb, fun movements from start to finish. Kind of hard when I was first starting to lead 10s but simple enough once you figure out the moves at the top. Mar 10, 2016
climberkalen
kern county, CA
climberkalen   kern county, CA
Good on ya for naming a line for Mr B...I think he's about to release a new album. For those of you who don't know, Jason was a shred guitarist from the '80s that suffers from ALS. Learn up on the man, he's an absolute inspiration. Apr 22, 2017
MJM
  5.10-
MJM  
  5.10-
The naming of this route was intended to raise awareness for JB and ALS. His version of Niccolo Paganini's 5th Caprice is remarkable.
dailymotion.com/video/x2mjf… Apr 23, 2017
Mark Says
Aspen, CO
 
Mark Says   Aspen, CO
 
This gets harder as you go, with the moves starting before the last bolt and to the anchors being incredibly fun and rewarding. Sep 17, 2017
Keith W
  5.10a
Keith W  
  5.10a
Not much else to say other than this is an insanely fun climb. Wish the top section went on for another 20 ft. Get on it! Nov 6, 2017
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
Oh man, so fun! There's a hole-in-the-wall, and the top upside-down staircase is fantastic. Do it! Nov 19, 2017
Sean C
  5.10b
Sean C  
  5.10b
Probably the best route I personally climbed at Shelf. That said, I saw two separate instances in the same two hour period of large pieces of rock coming off the route. Both climbers were on route and not doing anything stupid. Just a heads up. Sep 14, 2018