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Routes in Lost Ledge

Carpet Slabber S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cover Girl T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Erosion Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Found Arch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Holes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gawking At the Broad Squad S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Girls Prefer Batteries S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groov'in T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hallie Haley S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hole Traverse, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Little Dab Will Do Ya S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Lost Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Numb Nuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rattle Can S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhumb Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Twirpie Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Vector T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Washboard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Weak Nuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Bruce Kumph and Joe Cote 1975
Page Views: 106 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jamescolinwalsh17 on Jun 22, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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A delicate slab climb that requires careful footwork. Start by carefully moving up to the first bolt (25 - 30 feet off the ground and about 12 ft left of the lower Numb Nuts bolt). Delicate smearing leads past this to easier ground. Continue straight up to the tree anchor on Weak Nuts. Rappel with two ropes.


Rhumb Line is about 25-30 ft left of the obvious crack (Weak Nuts, 5.6) and a few feet left of the bolt(s) of Numb Nuts (5.8), on the "Main Slab" of Lost Ledge, past a tree filled gully that divides the cliff into two parts. Look for a somewhat lonely looking bolt about 25-30 feet off the ground, i.e. at just about the same level as the first bolt of Numb Nuts, and about 10 ft to the left.

[There's a 4-5" partial 'hole' a few feet above the "leaf line" near the start of this climb. R.Hall Admin.]


2 bolts, tree anchor of Weak Nuts

Once Weak Nuts is led, this climb can be TR'd from the anchor; although 2 ropes are required.


Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
  5.8 R
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
  5.8 R
Thanks Bob!!! :) Sep 23, 2014
Bob A  
Sent in great style grammy!! Sep 23, 2014
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
  5.8 R
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
  5.8 R
Did this with Bob A two days ago and found it to be a challenging and worthwhile route, definitely one to get your head right with little room for second guessing. Solid 5.7 30' to the bolt with the crux moving past the bolt to the second. Cams from #.4,.75-#2 are helpful, doubles in those sizes are nice for the flaring offwidth crack to the finish. I would give this an R rating not only for the 30'er you might take if you don't make the first bolt but the runout from the second bolt to the crack will get you pretty close to the ground if you pitch off the upper portion which probably goes at 5.5 /5.6. Those shiny new bolts are a welcome addition and thanks for all the updating and work you have done out there Bob A. I think these routes are going to be far more popular now that the old hardware has been replaced.

If you are looking for a good route to get that head in check, this one is not to be missed. Sep 22, 2014
Bob A  
A couple of things to settle here.
The climb just left of Weak Nuts is Numb Nuts (two newer bolts just left of Weak Nuts up to a flake(gear) then finish on upper crack of Weak Nuts.

The next climb to the left is Rhumb Line with a lonely bolt about 30 ft off the ground climb past that for about 15 ft to another bolt at a stance a bit in the black moss to the right(both just replaced 7-24-14)then run it out straight up to a crack just left of weak nuts(gear) and to the rappel anchor(tree) on weak nuts.There is no two bolt anchor for this climb.
Two ropes to rappel.

The next line to the left is Vector.That is the line that climbs a black mossy streak passing three 1/4 inch bolts on the way. [2015 update, bolt #1 has been replaced with a 3/8" SS.) Hard to see from the ground.
You can see the first one from the ground just up and right of the first bolt on Lost arch.
Lost Arch has a low stainless bolt just above a small overlap.The second bolt is quite a ways up through the crux.The third is just behind a small tree growing out of a big pocket then a fourth straight up to a two bolt anchor to the right of a rotten flake.
The next climb is Found Arch then Groov-in. Jul 24, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.8 R
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.8 R
Comment of 7/12/14 removed to avoid confusion as it contained incorrect info. see comment below. Jul 12, 2014