Type: Trad, 125 ft (38 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 889 total · 9/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

START: About 20 ft left of the crack/groove of Weak Nuts, just to the left of the dark lichen that descends from the upper part of the Weak Nuts crack.  A bolt may be seen about 25-30 feet up, with a 2nd bolt about 6-8 ft higher, if not hidden by the branches and leaves of a tree. B#1 has been replaced, but as of 2022 B#2 is an older non-stainless 3/8" a bit rusted..

P1 - Climb up to, and past the 1st bolt to the 2nd about 6-8 ft higher up, then on to the flake (gear). Here, either move up and slightly right intercepting Weak Nuts and rap of the Weak Nuts tree with double ropes, or work up and left eventually reaching the Vector/Lost Arch anchor and rap (but don't lower off ! )  with a single 70m, or double ropes.  

We were able to top rope the climb from the Hallie-Haley tree anchor by passing the small, lower tree on the Weak Nuts side, clipping the top Hallie-Haley bolt, then the 2nd Weak Nuts bolt, then moving left to the flake where a purple (0.5) Camalot down low and a green (0.75) a bit higher provided a directional anchor. The traversing involved some tension-traversing and climbing, as did the return voyage after pulling the pro.

Protection

2 draws and then a crack in a curving flake. Use the Weak Nuts tree anchor to descend.

Once Weak Nuts is led, this climb can be TR'd from the anchor; although 2 ropes are required.

Photos