Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: B. Russell & Greg Leach 2004
Page Views: 967 total · 8/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

START: Either at the very toe of the slab, or the Alternate Start (WAY easier to get to, and with cleaner rock) on the far left end of the sloping dirt ledge about 20 ft left the large Oak Tree of Groov'in. This start is 20-30 ft RIGHT of the usual start, and is above and to the left of the "toe" of the slab. If you're leading, be aware there is 20-30 ft of slab below you at the first move.

Looking up from the Alternate Start there is a flake up on the left, and a 4-5inch overlap to the flake's right.  Climb up to the flake,(gear possible)  step over the overlap and then up the dark lichen/moss past  TWO new, 3/8" SS bolts to the Groov'in 2-bolts-with-chains anchor. There are a couple of gear placements possible in addition to the two bolts: small cams.

According to Handren's guide this climb was first done on gear only, then bolts added by mistake.

I have retained the 5.6 rating, but my guess is this rating was given to the climb because as a "gear only" climb it would have been pretty 'concerning' for most 5.5 (and even 5.6) leaders, but with the bolts I'd give it a 5.4 - 5.5. Using the alternate start, no move is as hard as the crux of Groov'in.

Protection Suggest change

Small cams and a purple or green ( 0.5 or 0.75) Camalot. Draws for the bolts.

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