Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lost Ledge

Carpet Slabber S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cover Girl T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Erosion Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Found Arch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Holes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gawking At the Broad Squad S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Girls Prefer Batteries S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groov'in T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hallie Haley S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hole Traverse, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Little Dab Will Do Ya S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Lost Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Numb Nuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rattle Can S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhumb Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Twirpie Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Vector T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Washboard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Weak Nuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: B. Russell & Greg Leach 2004
Page Views: 136 total, 3/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

START: Either at the very toe of the slab, or (easier and with cleaner rock) on the far left end of a sloping dirt ledge. I.e. about 20 ft left, and 5-6 ft below, the large Oak Tree of Groov'in. This start is 20-30 ft RIGHT of the usual start, and is above and to the left of the "toe" of the slab.

Climb up past 2 overlaps (gear possible) and then up past at least TWO(2) new, 3/8" SS bolts (right in the dark lichen/moss) to the Groov'in 2-bolts-with-chains anchor. On the way there's one more gear placement possible.

According to Handren's guide this climb was first done on gear only, then bolts added by mistake.

I have retained the 5.6 rating, but my guess is this rating was given to the climb because as a "gear only" climb it would have been pretty 'concerning' for most 5.5 (and even 5.6) leaders, but with the bolts I'd give it a 5.4 - 5.5. Using the RIGHT-hand start, no move is as hard as the crux of Groov'in.

"CLEAN LAUNDRY" Variation: Avoid the moss, climb the clean rock just left of the dark lichen/moss. About 5.4 Top Rope or 5.4 R/X

Protection

Small cams and a purple or green ( 0.5 or 0.75) Camalot. Draws for the bolts.

Photos

0 Comments