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All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Lost Ledge

Gawking At the Broad Squad

5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British


 Avg: 1.8 from 5 votes

Routes in Lost Ledge

Carpet Slabber S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cover Girl T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Erosion Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Found Arch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Holes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gawking At the Broad Squad S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Girls Prefer Batteries S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groov'in T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hallie Haley S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hole Traverse, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Little Dab Will Do Ya S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Lost Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Numb Nuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rattle Can S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhumb Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Twirpie Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Washboard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Weak Nuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Sport, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 7/17/04 Joe Cote and Larry Boehmler
Page Views: 896 total · 9/month
Shared By: joshua corbett on Oct 11, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Same start as for Four Holes. At the bolt 30 ft up stay left (actually more "straight up") instead of going right on 4-Holes. Continue over the steeper "headwall" to an anchor. Pitch two climbs a very dirty slab to trees (5.2).

Location

Start in front of a large birch tree.This is the third climb you will come to.

Protection

Pitch 1: Three bolts to the two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: One bolt to the trees

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Photos

I belive this is Gawking but i am not sure.<br> photo by Loran Smith
I belive this is Gawking but i am not sure. ph…
 1
"Gawking" starts on "4-Holes", but then goes straight when "4-Holes" branches left at a bolt 30 ft up.
"Gawking" starts on "4-Holes&quo…
 1
Anchor at the top of "Gawking". Note the upper left bolt has rusted already. The right-side bolt is either newer, or the bolt itself is stainless, but not the nut and washers.
Anchor at the top of "Gawking". Note…
 1
New-ish 3/8" bolt on the slab directly above the P1 belay of "Gawking". Most of the slab below and above this has quite a bit of lichen. (Immediate area around the bolt was brushed 2016)
New-ish 3/8" bolt on the slab directly abo…
 1

2 Comments

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Dan Felix
 
Dan Felix  
 
Did the first pitch today with my kids. Definitely a dirty route- lichen covered and I doubt that will change any time soon without more traffic. There was a rope and rings on the anchor bolts, but unknown age. I left 3/8" screw links on the anchors, with the links the anchors are now at the same approximate elevation and should be easy to clip with draws. An FYI- it was sunny today, and the 3rd bolt was extremely difficult to see from below due to the sun and where it is placed! My 60 meter rope was *barely* long enough to get from the base of the birch tree up to the anchor and back down! Aug 26, 2012
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.4
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.4
Spring 2016 and P1 wasn't that dirty. A wire brush might be helpful. P2 is certainly mossy, but with the dbl bolt anchor there's no need (or desire ?) to climb it!

My 215 ft (65m) static line just made the ground from the double bolt anchor with the quick links. Jun 5, 2016

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