Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Joe Cote, Bob & Jeff Fraser, Al Lapraddle Dec 1973
Page Views: 409 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jamescolinwalsh17 on Jun 21, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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A fun little route that is the perfect choice for a beginning leader. Simply climb the route to the anchor, passing two old bolts. [see 2016 NOTE, bolts replaced]

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

[2016 NOTE: Somewhere along the line this climb got "cut in half", probably because the "natural, straight up" line above the "pitch 1" anchor is about 5.5 -5.6 R and totally out of context with "pitch 1." But the "second pitch" (or, almost certainly, the second half of a one-pitch FA) goes up a dike to the right of the "straight up line" above the anchor.

Webster's Editions 2 and 3 state this climb "climbs the right side of the slab past several bolts 5.3". Here is what I am nearly certain is a modern version of the correct route description:

P1 - Start at an obvious tree-root and dirt ledge at the right side of the slab. Climb the slab past two bolts with an option to belay at a bolted anchor off to the left. 85-90 ft 5.2
P2 - From the belay, move up and right about 20 ft to where a dike starts and rises back left. Make a move up and left gaining the dike. ("crux", 1973 "Joe Cote" bolt in the dike.) Continue up the dike passing one more 1973 bolt on the right. 120 ft 5.4 - 5.5 (i.e. "old school" 5.3) When/if you clip the 1973 bolt coming from the bolted anchor you will know why this climb was nearly certainly first climbed as a one-pitch climb without that anchor.

DESCENT: Rap with two ropes (or one 70meter rope) from the tree to the belay station, then a 2nd rap (single 60m OK here) to the ground.

P2 Variation: Climb directly up the "headwall" from the P1 anchor. 110 ft 5.5? - 5.6? R
Note added by R. Hall NH Admin. June 2016]


This is the first route you come to when hiking into the cliff. Look for two old (but solid) bolts [see 2016 NOTE, bolts replaced] on a low angled slab at the far right end of the cliff. The "P1" anchor is not visible from the base, but is located to the right of a bush growing on the slab.


2 bolts on "pitch 1", 2 more bolts on "pitch2".
Bolted anchor at the end of "pitch 1", tree at the end of "pitch 2"


Edge   R.I.P.
Two old bolts with home made flat bar stock hangers lead to a two bolt anchor. From here you can make a longish run-out up and right to another bolt, then trend up and left to a sling and quick link anchor at a tree. Many of the old hangers are hard to clip, and one required tying it off with webbing as there was no room to get the nose of a carabiner in it. I would not call the second "pitch" a wise choice for a beginning leader. Info from Oct. 10, 2010. Oct 11, 2010
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Also to know that there is no webing on the two bolt anchors at the top of the first pitch

[ See 2016 NOTE, below] Oct 12, 2010
someone added a 3/8" bolt next to the old 1/4" 3rd bolt to split it into two pitches i guess. from there i agree with EDGE, a bit runout and dirty for a beginner. Someone should replace those old manky 1/4" bolts, i doubt they would hold a fall! fun route tho! It can be done in one nice long pitch as well. Jul 2, 2011
Dan Felix  
Climbed/scrambled this route today with my kids. I left a 3/8" screw link on each anchor at the top. Figured the screw links would last longer than webbing...

[2016 NOTE: This anchor is now "set" with good bolts and a quick link ("screw link") for rapping. Also, someone has replaced the "Pitch 1" and "Pitch 2" bolts with 3/8" SS bolts. Bob Hall, NH Admin. ] Aug 26, 2012