Avg: 2 from 8 votes
|Type:||Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Joe Cote, Bob & Jeff Fraser, Al Lapraddle Dec 1973|
|Page Views:||325 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Jamescolinwalsh17 on Jun 21, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
DescriptionA fun little route that is the perfect choice for a beginning leader. Simply climb the route to the anchor, passing two old bolts. [see 2016 NOTE, bolts replaced]
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[2016 NOTE: Somewhere along the line this climb got "cut in half", probably because the "natural, straight up" line above the "pitch 1" anchor is about 5.5 -5.6 R and totally out of context with "pitch 1." But the "second pitch" (or, almost certainly, the second half of a one-pitch FA) goes up a dike to the right of the "straight up line" above the anchor.
Webster's Editions 2 and 3 state this climb "climbs the right side of the slab past several bolts 5.3". Here is what I am nearly certain is a modern version of the correct route description:
P1 - Start at an obvious tree-root and dirt ledge at the right side of the slab. Climb the slab past two bolts with an option to belay at a bolted anchor off to the left. 85-90 ft 5.2
P2 - From the belay, move up and right about 20 ft to where a dike starts and rises back left. Make a move up and left gaining the dike. ("crux", 1973 "Joe Cote" bolt in the dike.) Continue up the dike passing one more 1973 bolt on the right. 120 ft 5.4 - 5.5 (i.e. "old school" 5.3) When/if you clip the 1973 bolt coming from the bolted anchor you will know why this climb was nearly certainly first climbed as a one-pitch climb without that anchor.
DESCENT: Rap with two ropes (or one 70meter rope) from the tree to the belay station, then a 2nd rap (single 60m OK here) to the ground.
P2 Variation: Climb directly up the "headwall" from the P1 anchor. 110 ft 5.5? - 5.6? R
Note added by R. Hall NH Admin. June 2016]