All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Lost Ledge

The Hole Traverse

Name: The Hole Traverse
Rating: 2.0

5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British PG13

Routes in Lost Ledge

L › R R › L A › Z

	Carpet Slabber T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Cover Girl T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Erosion Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Found Arch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Four Holes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Gawking At the Broad Squad S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Girls Prefer Batteries T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Groov'in T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Hallie Haley S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hole Traverse, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Little Dab Will Do Ya S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
	Lost Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Numb Nuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Nutt’n But Clean Laundry T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Rattle Can S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rhumb Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Twirpie Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Washboard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Weak Nuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Dick & Karen Traverse July 1993
Page Views:	859 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Robert Hall on Jun 5, 2016 · Updates
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This route climbs up the clean rock just to the left of a 3-4ft wide streak of dark lichen & moss. The bolts, especially the first, are difficult to see. Bolts are 5/16-inch stainless steel.

To me, Pitch 2 seems a bit contrived, but Pitch 1 is some of the nicest friction on the slab and a great alternative start to4-Holes.

1) Start below, and a few feet left of, the small arching flake (gear possible). Friction directly up the slab, passing a 5/16-inch SS bolt about 30-35 ft up. A second bolt is reached about 10 feet below the flake of "4-Holes". Belay at the double bolt anchor. (Webbing and rappel rings replaced 8/2023)

2) The FA party belayed here and then stepped right several feet and up then back left and up on a line of holes of dike-like appearance and then finished on "4-Holes".

Location

START- On the Carpet Slab, about 30-35 ft left of Carpet Slabber. There is an arching flake about 5-8 ft up the slab just to the right of where the route starts at some solution pockets (NOT the "4-Holes pockets", which are still 30 ft to the left.)

Protection

Draws for the bolts, small cam for the lower flake if desired, and larger cam(s) for belay at the higher, much larger flake...or just use the dbl bolt anchor of 4-Holes.