Lost Ledge Rock Climbing
Routes in Lost Ledge
|Carpet Slabber S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Cover Girl T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Erosion Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Found Arch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Four Holes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Gawking At the Broad Squad S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Girls Prefer Batteries S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Groov'in T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Hallie Haley S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hole Traverse, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Little Dab Will Do Ya S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X|
|Lost Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Numb Nuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Rattle Can S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Rhumb Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Twirpie Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Vector T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Washboard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Weak Nuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|GPS:||43.995, -71.238 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Jamescolinwalsh17 on Jun 21, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionA pleasant sunny slab that is perfect for the beginning leader or for a more proficient climber who just wants to spend a relaxing day in the woods. The climbs at at Lost Ledge are almost all slabs and the cliff is never crowded. While it is about 20-25 min. and 400 vertical feet up into the woods; it is very easy to find with the proper directions.
Virtually of the old 1/4" bolts have now been replaced with 3/8" bolts.
Getting TherePark at the gravel pull out for Ham Brook, which is on the south side of the Kancamangus highway 0.5-0.6 miles east of the turn-off for Albany Covered Bridge (about 1.5 Mi. East of Lower Falls), or, from the Conway area, 5 1/2 miles West of Rt 16.
The path starts near the middle of the parking area. It drops down a few feet and then immediately climbs up steeply for 50 feet, then levels off (ignore any campsite or fire ring in this first 200-300 feet) and swings to the left. In about 2 or 3 minutes ( NOT 15min., or even 5) you reach an open area, here the main path turns RIGHT down an embankment to where the old fire ring has been transformed into rocks marking the path. Cross Ham Brook here at a cairn. A few feet beyond the crossing the path turns LEFT and follows a tiny gully/stream* for 100 ft, then it turns RIGHT up the steep hillside. [All this should have taken you no more than 3 or 4 minutes.] Follow the worn path and occasional cairns and yellow blazes for 20-25 minutes to the first slab (Carpet Slab). The Main slab is a minute further.
*Aug 2015, & Apr 2016 NOTE: A large tree has fallen in this 100 ft section. Do your best to get under, or around, it. 30-40 ft further on another tree/branch, large but much smaller than the first, marks where you want to turn 90-degrees right and head uphill.
As stated above, approaching on the climber's path you first arrive at the Carpet Slab and the first climb is "Carpet Slabber" (Wow! weren't those guys back in the 1970's ingenious in route nomenclature!). Traversing the length of the Carpet Slab and walking a less than a minute further you come to Main Slab and the climbs Rattle Can (black bolts) and Hallie Haley, then the obvious crack system of "Weak Nuts". Note the default order for listing climbs is L to Right; just click on R to Left to get the order by which you reach the climbs.
On the Main Slab all of the climbs from Washboard's "RIGHT-START" to Rattle Can are accessed from a wide, fairly level dirt base; for Washboard's normal start, Erosion Groove and Little Dab 'il Do Ya, it is necessary to drop down LEFT through the steep woods to the actual "toe" of the slab.
Classic Climbing Routes at Lost Ledge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season