Elevation: 1,389 ft
GPS: 43.995, -71.238 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 16,947 total · 136/month
Shared By: Jamescolinwalsh17 on Jun 21, 2010 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

A pleasant sunny slab that is perfect for the beginning leader or for a more proficient climber who just wants to spend a relaxing day in the woods. The climbs at at Lost Ledge are almost all slabs and the cliff is never crowded. While it is about 20-25 min. and 400 vertical feet up into the woods; it is very easy to find with the proper directions.

Virtually of the old 1/4" bolts have now (2016-18) been replaced with 3/8" bolts.

Getting There

[July 2018 NOTE: There is now a path (cleared leaves) around the 2017-18 winter blowdowns that had fallen directly on the climber's path making it obscure. The path should now be OK to follow. ] A couple of photos of the approach have been added.

Park at the gravel pull out for Ham Brook, which is on the south side of the Kancamangus highway 0.5-0.6 miles east of the turn-off for Albany Covered Bridge (about 1.5 Mi. East of Lower Falls), or, from the Conway area, 5 1/2 miles West of the "Kanc" traffic light on Rt 16.

The path starts near the middle of the parking area. It drops down a few feet and then immediately climbs up steeply for 50 feet, then levels off (ignore any campsite or fire ring in this first 200-300 feet) walk through a pine-forest flat area and then swing to the left. Look for birch branches on the ground "directing" you.
   In about 3-5 minutes of walking ( NOT 15min, as some books say) you reach an open area, here the main path turns RIGHT down an embankment to where the old fire ring has been transformed into rocks marking the path [Approach Photo-1]  [Note, to this point the path should have been clear, as this spot is a popular camping spot. (Unfortunately "illegal" as it's too close to a stream for WMNF ) Cross Ham Brook here at a cairn. A few feet beyond the crossing the path turns LEFT and follows a tiny gully/stream* for 100 ft, steps over a blown-down tree, and, just in front of a 2nd downed tree, turns 90-degrees RIGHT to climb directly up the steep hillside.  Follow the path and occasional cairns, flagging tape and faint yellow blazes.
  Some key turns are:
  1) When the first steep section ends (about 3 min. beyond the 90-degree right-hand turn) you'll pass between two trees [Approach photo-2], step over a rotting log and drop down to the right into a shallow gully with a cairn.  About 20 ft beyond the cairn, turn 90-degrees left and up. [Approach photo-3] DO NOT CONTINUE UP THE SHALLOW GULLY.  
  2)  Soon you'll reach the site of the 2017-18 blowdown (a large bitch tree) the new path goes directly through this now, then turns left.  
  3) Shortly thereafter, the path then levels out for a short distance while traversing left, then turns up right and passes next to a large boulder (1-stone cairn) and then turns up right very steeply for 100 ft, then makes a left and follows an ancient "skidder" (logging) road. You should start to see the "Carpet Slab" here.
  4) Avoid dropping left and low, but continue up along the old "skidder path" to a cairn, then drop down left and reach the far right of the Carpet Slab.  The base of the climb "Carpet Slabber" is the open area about 25 ft from the far right of the slab.
  Approach should take 20-25 minutes (500 vertical ft, about 1/2 to 3/4 mile) to the first slab (Carpet Slab). The Main slab is just to the left further.

As stated above, approaching on the climber's path you first arrive at the Carpet Slab and the first climb is "Carpet Slabber" (Wow! weren't those guys back in the 1970's ingenious in route nomenclature!). Traversing the length of the Carpet Slab and walking a less than a minute further you come to Main Slab and the climbs Rattle Can (black bolts) and Hallie Haley, then the obvious crack system of "Weak Nuts". Note the default order for listing climbs is L to Right; just click on R to Left to get the order by which you reach the climbs.

On the Main Slab all of the climbs from Washboard's "RIGHT-START" to Rattle Can are accessed from a wide, fairly level dirt base; for Washboard's normal start, Erosion Groove and Little Dab 'il Do Ya, it is necessary to drop down LEFT through the steep woods to the actual "toe" of the slab.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lost Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 11
Carpet Slabber
Sport 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
Girls Prefer Batteries
Sport 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 6
Groov'in
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 3
The Hole Traverse
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 10
Weak Nuts
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Erosion Groove
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Hallie Haley
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 11
Rattle Can
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Found Arch
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 4
Numb Nuts
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Lost Arch
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Carpet Slabber
 11
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport 2 pitches
Girls Prefer Batteries
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport 2 pitches
Groov'in
 6
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad
The Hole Traverse
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Weak Nuts
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad
Erosion Groove
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Hallie Haley
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Rattle Can
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Found Arch
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Numb Nuts
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Lost Arch
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
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