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Routes in Lost Ledge

Carpet Slabber S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cover Girl T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Erosion Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Found Arch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Holes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gawking At the Broad Squad S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Girls Prefer Batteries S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groov'in T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hallie Haley S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hole Traverse, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Little Dab Will Do Ya S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Lost Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Numb Nuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rattle Can S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhumb Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Twirpie Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Vector T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Washboard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Weak Nuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Cathy Connell & Sue Deming, May 1990
Page Views: 96 total, 5/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jun 5, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Originally climbed without any bolts (5.4 -5.5 X) the 5/16-inch SS bolts were accidentally added by a later party which was unaware of the FA.

According to Webster, this was the first route in the White Mtns where the first ascent party was all women.

The first 10-15 ft of this climb is now horribly moss-and-lichen coated, so either have a big, strong wire brush or START on the first few moves of "Girls Prefer Batteries" and then step left to the flake.

START- Up the mossy slab past the curving, incipient flake (or, better, start on "Girls Prefer Batteries" and move right as soon as possible.)

Climbing right of the seam and bolt of Girls', climb to the large flake and protect. Now climb to the huge pothole [5/16 bolt], move left (crossing "Girls") and up to clean, brown, rock. Climb up passing 3 more 5/16-inch bolts to an anchor. The bolts are to the right, often an inch or two "into" the mossy rock.

Rap with 2 ropes, or with one rope swing to rappeller's right to one of the lower anchors.

Location

START - on the Carpet Slab, about 65-70 ft left of Carpet Slabber, and a few feet left of the 18-inch yellow birch tree. There is a curving, incipient flake 10-15 ft off the ground and a larger flake about 30-35 ft up. Much moss on the first 10-15 ft.

Protection

Medium Cam(s) for the flake
Draws for the bolts

Photos

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