Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Joe Cote & Bruce Kumph 1975
Page Views: 129 total · 2/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

With all three bolts replaced, this might see more traffic. A good brushing would be welcome, but it "goes" OK now (2017). The 5.8 seems quite "old school". Its crux is quite a bit thinner than its neighbors.

START: Look for dark brown/licheny streak of rock about 20ft right of Groov'n. [As of Aug 2015 bolt # 1 has been replaced with a 3/8" s.s., this bolt looks like a slightly "off-line" bolt on Lost Arch. The new bolt is approx 12 inches left of the old 1/4 inch bolt (whose cut-off stud is still there), possibly to allow someone leading Lost Arch to clip it. (??) ]

Vector has 3 bolts, but I suspect most people leading it might clip the first bolt of Lost Arch.

Climb up to the first new bolt (2nd bolt if you clip Lost Arch's #1), pass it slightly on the right,making crux moves nearly directly over the old 1/4 inch bolt's chopped "stud". (some might say 5.9+) and continue up to a 2nd bolt (3/8-inch stainless replaced the older 1/4" bolt.) Continue to a huge "scoop" and the 3rd bolt (also replaced in late 2017). Step right and up on brushed footholds, moving left to the Lost Arch double bolt anchor & chains.

Protection

Draws and you might sling the pine tree.

Photos

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