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Early Access
Routes in Lost Ledge
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Carpet Slabber T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cover Girl T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Erosion Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Found Arch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Four Holes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Gawking At the Broad Squad S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Girls Prefer Batteries T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Groov'in T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Hallie Haley S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hole Traverse, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Little Dab Will Do Ya S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Lost Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Numb Nuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Nutt’n But Clean Laundry T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Rattle Can S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rhumb Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Twirpie Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Washboard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Weak Nuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 43.99512, -71.23819 |
| FA: | Joe Cote & Bruce Kumph 1975 |
| Page Views: | 907 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
With all three bolts replaced, this might see more traffic. A good brushing would be welcome, but it "goes" OK now (2017). The 5.8 seems quite "old school". Its crux is quite a bit thinner than its neighbors. The FA pre-dated sticky rubber.
START: Look for dark brown/licheny streak of rock about 20ft right of Groov'n. [As of Aug 2015 bolt # 1 has been replaced with a 3/8" s.s., this bolt looks like a slightly "off-line" bolt on Lost Arch. The new bolt is approx 12 inches left of the old 1/4 inch bolt (whose cut-off stud is still there), possibly to allow someone leading Lost Arch to clip it. (??) ]
Vector has 3 bolts, but I suspect most people leading it might clip the first bolt of Lost Arch, making a total of 4.
Climb up to the first new bolt (2nd bolt if you clip Lost Arch's #1), pass it slightly on the right,making crux moves nearly directly over the old 1/4 inch bolt's chopped "stud". (some might say 5.9+) and continue up to a 2nd bolt (3/8-inch stainless replaced the older 1/4" bolt.) Continue to a huge "scoop" and the 3rd bolt (also replaced in late 2017). Step right and up on brushed footholds, moving left to the Lost Arch double bolt anchor & chains.
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