Type: Mixed, Ice, 90 ft
FA: Lowe?
Page Views: 1,280 total · 11/month
Shared By: Brad Grohusky on Jan 18, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Start about 20 feet right of Designator. Work up rock steps to an obvoius rock corner. Ice drips usually help movement upward. Stoppers, smaller cams, a fixed pin and screws lead to a restful ledge. BG has climbed this route with twin doubles and also a single line. Be very careful of rope drag and use long runners. From ledge, place a smaller TCU in perfect crack and rest. The scary part is about to begin. Clip to old pins as you turn up from ledge. Vertical cracks and horizontal pockets lead to next angle pin. Now move up and then left to frozen ice. Usually a nice willow log to jam foot into as one pulls onto ice.

Location

20 to 30 feet right of Designator. The bolt up high is the first clip on Somnambulist.

Protection

Trad gear of cams to #2 Camalot, stopper, stubbies and screws. Long runners. Single or double? I will let the crowd decide.

Photos

Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  WI5-6 M8- R
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  WI5-6 M8- R
Spectacular route. I've always stared at it for the last several years, even brought up my trad gear most the time. I thought it was a quite a bit scarier then Octopussy. Wonderful creation by Jeff Lowe. Also some of the pins have pulled since this writing.

I left a fixed pecker at the crux to make it a little more safer as the original pins are pretty terrible. It ain't a sport climb, and falling on just about the whole route is a no-no. Serious outing. 4 star classic. Watch the rope drag. Pulling onto the hanger at the top is awesome!

For gear next time, I'd bring RPs, small set of stoppers, TCUs, 0.5 to #1 cams, 2 #2 peckers, 1 KB, 1 LA, 1 baby angle, a lot of alpine draws too. This is one of the better lines in Vail. Jan 31, 2014
Blue TCU and #2 Metolius Supercam, otherwise the gear is all mank. I left a #4 Rock in situ otherwise about 8 alpine draws, beaucoup quickdraws, 5 short screws and a set of mighty guns. Bon chance and ditto on the don't fall sentiment.

Fekkin' Jeff Lowe could really climb! Feb 10, 2014