Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 100 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 1,342 total · 16/month
Shared By: Noah McKelvin on Feb 15, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Dr. Delicate is an obscure "classic" located to the left of the Rigid Designator. It may be the farthest left route. It's hard to catch this one in condition. When "in", it sports some difficult thin ice.

After a bit of climbing, the one and only bolt is clipped, then to a so so angle piton. Then it's your gear from then on. (Though a recent piton has been placed by Stanley.) The crux is keeping it together as you must climb some vertical ice and run it out a bit until a screw can be placed. The dry tooling is very delicate, and it's easy to not pick the easiest way. Once the roof is reached, the tool placements are a little more solid.

If the route is really well formed, you can continue on thin ice and rock heading right after the pillar to the top. I've heard going right is M7R (forgot what this variation is called) and heading straight out the roof is M9R.

Usually the route ends at the top of the ice and you V-thread off.

The name couldn't be more true about the line. It will humble all who expect to find solid hooks.

Location

This is the smear to the left of the Rigid Designator.

Protection

Some TCUs and a 0.4 C4 cam fits perfectly into a questionable block at the roof. You won't need to many screws on this one.

Photos

0 Comments