Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 100 ft (30 m)|
|Page Views:||1,793 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Noah McKelvin on Feb 15, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
After a bit of climbing, the one and only bolt is clipped, then to a so so angle piton. Then it's your gear from then on. (Though a recent piton has been placed by Stanley.) The crux is keeping it together as you must climb some vertical ice and run it out a bit until a screw can be placed. The dry tooling is very delicate, and it's easy to not pick the easiest way. Once the roof is reached, the tool placements are a little more solid.
If the route is really well formed, you can continue on thin ice and rock heading right after the pillar to the top. I've heard going right is M7R (forgot what this variation is called) and heading straight out the roof is M9R.
Usually the route ends at the top of the ice and you V-thread off.
The name couldn't be more true about the line. It will humble all who expect to find solid hooks.