Type: Sport, Mixed, 2 pitches
FA: Eric Malmgren
Page Views: 4,678 total · 35/month
Shared By: Daniel Battin on Dec 24, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

First pitch: climb vertical seam to low angle, blocky corner under the roof. Jug through the roof (figure 4s and 9s not needed but can help) to the crux lip. There is a slung two bolt anchor up and to the right that can't be missed.

Really fun pitch!

Per Jason Nelson: For pitch 2/extension: Climb through a techy roof above the first anchor to more secure climbing. You can get a "rodeo rest" on the diving board by wrapping your legs around it. Shake out, then prepare for a figure four and figure nine as you climb the roof and your feet loose contact with the diving board. I believe you can either traverse left to the Fang or continue upwards if there's ice in condition. Hopefully you're not too pumped to swing your tools into the ice at this point. There's an anchor in the tree at the top of the Fang. Word on the street is the second pitch is M11. Seemed about right to me. This route is good fun. Thanks for bolting it, Eric!

Location

This is immediately left of Amphibian.

Protection

Draws.
Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
For Pitch 2/Extension: Climb through a techy roof above the first anchor to more secure climbing. You can get a "rodeo rest" on the diving board by wrapping your legs around it. Shake out, then prepare for a figure four and figure nine as you climb the roof and your feet loose contact with the diving board. I believe you can either traverse left to the Fang or continue upwards if there's ice in condition. Hopefully you're not too pumped to swing your tools into the ice at this point. There's an anchor in the tree at the top of the Fang. Word on the street is the second pitch is M11. Seemed about right to me. This route is good fun. Thanks for bolting it, Eric! Sep 4, 2009
Buster Jesik
Allenspark, CO
Buster Jesik   Allenspark, CO
Is there a consensus rating for just the first pitch? Jan 24, 2012
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
 
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
 
@Buster: M9 is word on the street. Feb 24, 2012
Roof section rebolted Winter '12/'13 with 12mm stainless; old bolts were pulling out. Dec 4, 2013
MaryH. Harlan
Carbondale, CO
MaryH. Harlan   Carbondale, CO
Really long & committing-feeling move through the roof to huge jug. The steinpull in the seam, which appears to be an intermediate, is too wide for your tool to stick, so it's pretty much a dyno to the jug, which makes for exciting climbing! Mar 10, 2015