The Gargoyle

This is a beautiful, steep, freestanding pillar that is about the same size as the nearby Rigid Designator and The Fang. The Gargoyle touched down as a wild pillar in 2020 and in 2024 (see the photos) but was never climbed as it was way too spicy for the locals (I wish Stas was here at the time as he would have sent it). It is both a natural line (water has flowed there for many years) and a farmed line (it formed this year as a huge gigantic pillar due to the cable). Previously, The Gargoyle has been a death defying hanging curtain fondly called The Guillotine by the locals for many years. We always knew this dagger had potential to form, and I think all local ice climbers have been waiting for the day. Dave and Griz talked about hanging a cable to help it along last spring, and they and several locals were tossing around names for the pillar if it was to form in climbable conditions. Several variations to Satan's, Spear and Sickle etc. were tossed around by both Dave and Griz. Last fall, Stanley helped get the cable ready for transport, Gomez and Perry carried the cable up to the base, and Griz hung it up - a true team effort, and we should all thank them for this! 

This year (2024-2025) it did form as a climbable pillar with the help of the cable. It was climbable for several days before Dave did the FA. In the new guidebook, the unclimbed pillar was named Satan's Spear; however, Dave didn't think that was an appropriate name for such a huge and stellar pillar. As is custom, the FA party names the route, and as he did the FA, he named it The Gargoyle, which is a most fitting name considering the gigantic nature and the wings on the side. He also put in the first anchor (an 80m rope was needed). This anchor was removed when the bolted anchor was installed (perfect for a 70m rope). As for the name of the climb, respect needs to be shown to the FA party who named it The Gargoyle, but respect should also be shown to Griz and the folks who helped him get the cable up there. Some folks are simply calling it The Spear as it refers to the name in the book. Bottom line .......call it what you want.

I think it is prudent to thank Griz for his hard work up at the amphitheater and for helping out with route developments, anchors, and more. Without his help, we probably would not have this new gem. Of note, his new guidebook is excellent and contains so many gems around the area.

This is the very obvious new pillar to the left of the Rigid Designator.

Ice screws - long ones are probably preferred.

Eds. This submission and the second submission are left in place, as the history is complicated enough and not easily resolved as one submission. This is not typical for our website, but certain complicated exceptions warrant this. This subsection is intended to be under admin jurisdiction.