Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Ryan Vachon and Christopher Sheridan, January 2021
Page Views: 552 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ryan Vachon on Jan 14, 2021
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route is an alternate finish to The Rigid Designator (Desi). The new terrain trends right at about 3/4 up the Desi. You know that you are in the right spot when you reach an alcove in the ice on the right side of The Desi, where we found some cracks in the adjoining rock. We placed screws and cams here on double runners. We did not find more gear until 15 feet to the right when we reached some daggers of ice.

From the alcove, we trended right along increasingly insecure tool placements - flat ledges to turfies to off-camber small ledges to leg-sized daggers of ice. This has fun, thoughtful movement, and despite the steep climbing, we found decent feet. We ascended the daggers, for a meter or two, where we sunk a marginal stubbie at the contact to the ice and rock. The smaller daggers were then threaded to the right, and we surmounted the larger dagger that led us to the top.

We felt like the route deserved an 8 rating; however, with more traffic (possibly enhancing some of the holds) or during years with larger daggers, M7 might be more appropriate. Also, the route traverses insecure terrain threatened by a dangerous pendulum. The pucker-factor might have played into our evaluation. Give it a try, and share your thoughts.

Location Suggest change

Climb 3/4 of the way up the Rigid Designator, on the right side, then move right.

Protection Suggest change

Screws (a couple of stubbies helped) and finger-sized cams or smaller.