WI6 M7-8 R
Avg: 4 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||7,839 total · 66/month|
|Shared By:||Noah McKelvin on Feb 14, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The climbing is simply wild and not your ordinary "all bolt" route. Though most of it's fixed, it has the "trad" sense to it.
The Seventh Tentacle is usually the route used to approach Octopussy. You could either belay at the bolts for the top of The Seventh Tentacle or traverse left for a few feet to another set of bolts for Reptile. A traverse left at M4ish is made with some interesting gear and potential for some interesting falls before you're behind the curtain.
Inspect the curtain, perhaps rap down before you get on it to make sure it's safe to climb on as sometimes the fracture line cannot be seen until you're face to face with it. If the curtain is really well formed, you can stem accross and skip the chossy, overhang drytooling sometimes called "Octowussy." If it's not that fat, clip all the mank at the ledge (#1 BD cam can be placed around here to back it up) and equalize it. Use a screamer here and there.
Commit to the overhung corner for a couple moves to a very strenous clip to the hanging tat (two equalized pins). The transfer to the ice can be very strenuous. Whether it involves figure fours, front levers, or if you're lucky, it can be straightforward! Once on the front, cruise for 10 feet of WI5+ ice to the top. Make sure to place a screw a bit above the roof and not on the hanging curtain, and try to keep the rope from running directly underneath the curtain.