Type: Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: Rob Griz, John Parsons, Brandon Groza
Page Views: 2,091 total · 16/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Apr 11, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

A fun way to reach the wall ice behind The Fang. This route lies directly between 7th Chakra to the left and Seventh Tentacle to the right. Follow the 2 bolts up into the overhanging daggers and pull onto steep ice. Continue up the center/left edge to the chain anchors that hang from the roof above. This is an excellent route with positive holds and possible chimney moves on the free-hangers. Good thing is, you don't need the extra 5 balls to do the route.  Note: On 1/21, the loose and dangerous 'divingboard' ledge has been removed as well as the first bolt.  This has made the base area under the route safer for belayers and parties that frequently pass underneath.  It has increased the route difficulty slightly, but still climbs in the same fashion as the FA.  

Location

Working left from the obvious Cupcake Corner: Frigid Inseminator, 7th Tentacle, 7th Testicle, 7th Chakra, and Little Higher. This route starts at the left side of the 7th ice.

Protection

3 bolts and a handful of medium screws. There are chain anchors above in the roof.

2015 note: the 3rd bolt has been somewhat compromised by a section of rock that fell out. It will soon be replaced in "better" stone.

2016: the 3rd bolt has been replaced in better (remember it's Vail) rock. Enjoy!

2021:  The 1st bolt (see pic) and the large, loose ledge removed.  All holds remain in their original locations and climbs the same.

Photos