Type: Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, 85 ft
FA: Rob Griz, John Parsons, Brandon Groza
Page Views: 1,322 total · 14/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Apr 11, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun new way to reach the wall ice behind The Fang. This route lies directly between 7th Chakra to the left and Seventh Tentacle to the right. Follow the 3 bolts up into the overhanging daggers and pull the curtain onto steep ice. Continue up the center/left edge to new chain anchors that hang from the roof above. This is an excellent route with positive holds and possible chimney moves on the free-hangers. Good thing is, you don't need the extra 5 balls to do the route.

Location

Working left from the obvious Cupcake Corner: Frigid Inseminator, 7th Tentacle, 7th Testicle, 7th Chakra, and Little Higher. This route starts at the left end of the low, obvious block/ledge that sticks out from the wall, 15' above your head.

Protection

3 bolts and a handful of medium screws. There are chain anchors above in the roof.

2015 note: the 3rd bolt has been somewhat compromised by a section of rock that fell out. It will soon be replaced in "better" stone.

2016: the 3rd bolt has been replaced in better (remember it's Vail) rock. Enjoy!

Photos

Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  WI5- M6+
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  WI5- M6+
I think this variation is way better than the original start. More direct. You usually get a chimney rest between the dagger and wall, and who doesn't love pulling onto hangers? Jan 9, 2015