Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 70 ft
FA: Paul Sibley & Steve Pomerance, ~1985
Page Views: 4,213 total · 23/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 10, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

This is a terrific, little route. It is surprising to not find it in the ice database here until now. The line has been called many things: Thang, Little Thang, Frigid Inseminator, Rigid Inseminator, The Tongue, and others (per C. Burns & J. Roberts). This enticing dribble lies just L behind The Fang and to the R of the Seventh Tentacle. The ice rarely reaches the ground. It stirs the imagination every moderate climber who walks beneath it or watches Jeff Lowe's lead of it in his Waterfall Ice video.

Find a series of 3 bolts leading up to a thinnish dribble of ice on near vertical to vertical terrain. The easier opening moves are slightly to the R of the bolt line with insecure pulling on small edges and delicate feet to a decent jug. Continue up growing but insecure edges towards the ice. Some years, the 3rd bolt is buried in ice. Hook, chip, & ease your way up thin ice. Equalized stubbies and/or slung icicles are often all there is for a good way. Near the top, the ice may fatten enough to permit moderate swings. It feels hard to relax on this climb. Be gentle and leave some ice for others.

No heel hooks or figure 4s required. Thank goodness.

2 bolt anchor, about 90 feet.

Beware of falling ice here. At least one belayer paid the price here.

This anchor is shared with Cupcake Corner.

As a personal aside, it was one of my ole rock partner's (Steve S.) first and only ice lead. Whoa! A ropegun may be the ticket here. Thanks, Dale!

Protection

3 QDs, stubbies, a medium screw or 2. A stickclip is useful.

Photos

This route was first led by Paul Sibley and Steve Pomerance around 1985. Paul aided the first three bolts and then finished the rest free. Steve followed it free. Don't know who did the first free ascent on lead. Mar 19, 2010
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  WI5+ M5+
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  WI5+ M5+
Jack, thanks for the info! What did they name it? Mar 19, 2010
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  WI5+ M5+ R
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  WI5+ M5+ R
This route never disappoints! Catching this thing when it first comes in, detached from Seventh Tentacle, is way higher quality, imo. A couple 10cm and 13s will do the trick. So fun! Jan 9, 2015