Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Paul Sibley & Steve Pomerance, ~1985
Page Views: 4,973 total · 23/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 10, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is a terrific, little route. It is surprising to not find it in the ice database here until now. The line has been called many things: Thang, Little Thang, Frigid Inseminator, Rigid Inseminator, The Tongue, and others (per C. Burns & J. Roberts). This enticing dribble lies just L behind The Fang and to the R of the Seventh Tentacle. The ice rarely reaches the ground. It stirs the imagination every moderate climber who walks beneath it or watches Jeff Lowe's lead of it in his Waterfall Ice video.

Find a series of 3 bolts leading up to a thinnish dribble of ice on near vertical to vertical terrain. The easier opening moves are slightly to the R of the bolt line with insecure pulling on small edges and delicate feet to a decent jug. Continue up growing but insecure edges towards the ice. Some years, the 3rd bolt is buried in ice. Hook, chip, & ease your way up thin ice. Equalized stubbies and/or slung icicles are often all there is for a good way. Near the top, the ice may fatten enough to permit moderate swings. It feels hard to relax on this climb. Be gentle and leave some ice for others.

No heel hooks or figure 4s required. Thank goodness.

2 bolt anchor, about 90 feet.

Beware of falling ice here. At least one belayer paid the price here.

This anchor is shared with Cupcake Corner.

As a personal aside, it was one of my ole rock partner's (Steve S.) first and only ice lead. Whoa! A ropegun may be the ticket here. Thanks, Dale!

Protection

3 QDs, stubbies, a medium screw or 2. A stickclip is useful.

Photos