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Routes in Ed and Terry Wall

Blind Date S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge of the World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Real McCoy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 568 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Aug 13, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Pleasant and sustained 5.7 crimps lead straight up the face to the third and final bolt of I'm Not Lichen This. Your first bit of protection is a couple of micro cams next to each other behind a large horizontal flake. Your second place for protection is in funky pockets/flakes (again, a couple small cams fit there).

This route could possibly warrant an R rating. Just uh... don't fall before you get that second piece in, or else you'll deck. Also, the gear is pretty small. Best to put a couple cams in at each point.

Location

Starts on the nice ledge between Full Skuck and I'm Not Lichen This.

Protection

Micro cams (I used a set of C3s). One bolt.

Photos

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Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.7
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.7
5.7 is exhilarating again! It's probably been toproped before but I doubt it had been led before. When I climbed it I eschewed the bolt and placed a 000 C3 in a flake next to it. A few feet above the piece, my rope pulled it out. It's probably a better idea to just clip the bolt...

I debated as to whether or not this route was really worth posting here, but I think it is. It isn't as squeezed as you might think it is or as it might look on a topo. There's a fair amount of space between you and the routes on either side (you're not close to touching the holds on either route), and it takes a nice direct line up the face. As far as climbing goes, it's no worse than I'm Not Lichen This and because of the nature of the protection it was (to me, anyway) a more memorable climb. I thought it was fun, anyway... Aug 13, 2009
A little bit dirty, but certainly worth the effort. Rock Canyon has quite a few moderate "R,R/X" routes and this one should be included in that circuit!
I really enjoyed watching Tristan lead this. There is some good gear down low but as you approach the second placement, the holds get a bit more tenuous. Would definitely not want to fall right here! The third placement is right next to the bolt (clip if you want to but Tristan didn't) and pretty small. Might take a bit of finagling to place just right but you would still want a sling.
I didn't even consider leading this as I just became a dad and "R" rated routes are off limits right now...but Tristan did fantastic! Aug 13, 2009
Been there, done that. Several times in fact. With a gal named Claire during (I.D. Claire) and while creating DJW, again with Andy. And sorry, it's been lead climbed before there were bolts. It's a squeeze for sure. I'd call it an exciting variation to what's already permanently there, but wouldn't call it my own. Aug 14, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.7
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.7
Jim, you crusty old route stealer! :) If you've done this before (especially a few times?!), you did a crap job of cleaning it! There were several loose holds and flakes that I had to knock off. Some of them were very precariously perched.

A variation? I disagree. It's no more squeezed or less separate than any of the other bazillion routes on Ed and Terry. I still think it's separate and different enough to warrant being called a different route. You said you did this before there were bolts. I didn't add any bolts, so do you mean before I'm Not Lichen This had bolts?

And my quest for obscure Rock Canyon trad lines continues...

EDIT later to respond to Jim's response below: There is definitely a difference between crappy in a lichen sense and crappy in a loose rock, pulling-off-holds-all-over sense. This route was the latter, unlike other routes on the face, which were the former. Aug 14, 2009
It's always been crappy, (clue: Lichen?) and I never considered it a particularly distinct line, so I didn't bother cleaning it. I climbed it solo (not recommended) as a way to the arete when DJW went in years ago. I had seen it climbed before I'm-Not-Lichen-This was a bolted route (on pitons-omg!) so I didn't steal anything, there's nothing there to steal. FA unknown.

Hmm, if you are poaching some of the bolts from the nearby route and suggesting that they be used because your pro fell out, what are we supposed to think? Don't use ANY of the bolts, be a purist, make it a distinct line, accept the risk and just say I did a nervy but satisfying alternative to INLT. And then you can keep the name.

Good luck finding new terrain in the south side. That low-hanging fruit has had folk crawling all over every square inch for decades. The ROTC used to go up there in droves and beat pins in everywhere. It was fashionable then, and it's fashionable now. Tactics and styles have changed for sure, but smile as you clear away the rubble and moss from the most obscure seeming places and find rusty pitons and rotten nylon. You're in good company. Aug 14, 2009

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