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Routes in Ed and Terry Wall

Blind Date S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge of the World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Real McCoy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,632 total · 12/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A fun trad route on a fun wall. No Way in Hell climbs a flake system up to and around the right side of the center roof on Ed and Terry. It then goes to the slot up and right of the roof, and finally climbs up a small, broken crack system to the anchors.

The start and end bits are easier than the rest, but the whole route has positive edges and good feet. There didn't seem to be a real crux; after the start the climbing was similar until right before the end.

Location

This route starts to the right of the Main Crack up an obvious serrated flake system that is located under the right side of the center roof.

Protection

Small to medium nuts and a small cam or 3 (I placed a #.75 C4, a #2 C3, and a #0 C3 (that wasn't really needed). Mostly good placements but you have to look for them. There is also one bolt above and to the left of the slot. Chain anchors.

Photos

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9- PG13
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9- PG13
This route was an enormously fun lead. A few runout sections kept my attention and overall the climbing was a nice balance of "moderate" and "tricky." Some of the gear I placed wasn't the best, but if you can lead 10- and higher on gear this route shouldn't be too much of a problem. If you're expecting a cruiser 5.8 you're in for a treat!

I'd say singles from your smallest cam up to a #2, with a set of nuts and plenty of runners. Aug 18, 2014
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
This is a fun and interesting route, well worth doing! I followed a crack system right after the slot (skipping the bolt) to the Real McCoy anchors which made for a nice alternate finish. Mar 29, 2016
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
  5.7+ PG13
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
  5.7+ PG13
This probably isn't technically harder than Flakes or Main Crack, but it seemed a little harder to me because the gear isn't very confidence inspiring, so I'd recommend being a confident leader that this grade before getting on this. Bring a single rack from tips to #1 Camalot and a set of nuts (micronuts very useful) and a lot of alpine draws both to cut down on drag and to clip to nuts (you'll place a lot). As the previous comment mentioned, there's a nice alternate finish up to the chains for the Real McCoy. I'd recommend this because I thought it was funner and protected better, it also seems like a more natural line so if want to do the original finish just remember you need to go left right after the slot like feature instead of following the obvious crack that trends right. Feb 8, 2018

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