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Routes in Ed and Terry Wall

Blind Date S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge of the World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Real McCoy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 988 total, 10/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 25, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A line that follows a series of broken quartzite weaknesses, with a bit of offwidth and about ten feet of actual chimney.

At the north side (left) of Ed and Terry scramble east and up a bit and then scramble up some 4th class terrain to a ledge with a bush. This is probably the best belay spot, although you could certainly belay from lower down (before the 4th class scramble).

Continue up some easier 5th class terrain while bearing a bit left where the stemming is easier. Arrive at a section of offwidth crack, make a tenuous move or two to get established in the chimney outside of the offwidth, sit back and enjoy the view.

When finished lollygagging head up for the chain anchors, or continue to the top if walking off (a gear anchor will be necessary).

Location

Climbs up the wider section of the north side of the main Ed and Terry wall. In the shade most of the day.

Protection

Nuts small to large, cams of all sizes, slings.

There is a chain anchor near the top, or continue to the top of Ed and Terry and belay from there.

(I used a mixture of small and medium nuts, a #2.5 DMM 4CU, and the following Camalot C4's: #.5, #2, #5, #6. The big stuff probably isn't necessary, but the #6 was nice to have.)

Photos

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