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Routes in Ed and Terry Wall

Blind Date S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Knight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of the World T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Real McCoy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 718 total · 6/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Mar 12, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A more trad variation to Roaches on a Face. Darren K. led me up this some time ago, telling me that it had been done years ago but somebody and he needed to check the gear for his guide book.
Begin on the same bolted face as Roaches. When you reach the downward pointing flake/overlap, head left using a small crack for gear. If memory serves me right DK used small TCU's and even a brass nut. The roof was a quick a grunt and the upper face is mostly mellow. You have to be a bit creative with your gear on the upper face, but it didn't merit a PG rating.
One more variation to do on this beautiful wall.

Protection

mostly small nuts and cams. Be prepared for less than perfect placements here and there, but nothing scary.

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Called Hotwired.
FA= Jim Knight May 10, 2009
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
  5.10a/b PG13
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
  5.10a/b PG13
Surprised that this route doesn't have more ticks because I rather enjoyed it and didn't find it to be all that difficult (it was my first .10 on gear). I do think it deserves a PG-13 rating, however. Maybe I just missing something, but after the roof I didn't get in a piece of gear that I trusted for about 30-40 feet, so bring smaller stuff than I did (I had a #4 BD stopper and a #0 Master Cam). Granted, the climbing after the roof isn't too hard, but unless you've got really small stuff be prepared to run it out. Feb 8, 2018

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