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Routes in Ed and Terry Wall

Blind Date S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge of the World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Real McCoy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,633 total, 37/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 2, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A steep, exposed, thrilling, and wonderful natural line up the best-looking face in Rock Canyon. When big-name climbers come to Rock Canyon, Flakes always impresses.

The line follows the right side of two large flakes about twenty feet to the left Main Crack.

A start directly below the right side of the first flake is how most people climb it these now, but in the days of shorter ropes climbers started almost directly below Main Crack and traversed left.

The climbing is exciting: easy moves interspersed with somewhat harder moves on mostly solid holds, and the occasional creaky jug. The gear is obvious and solid.

When the edge of the top flake peters out, bear right and up to an obvious crack and the chains.

Protection

A single set of stoppers and cams, two bolts, and bolted anchors.

Photos

Ky Watson
Provo Utah
  5.8
Ky Watson   Provo Utah
  5.8
The rock here is awesome! best in the canyon. really fun climbing and good gear. probably one of the harder 5.7s I've climbed. felt more like 5.8 to me, but maybe just because it's exposed and it was really windy. Mar 10, 2017
James Leavy
Provo, Uah
  5.7
James Leavy   Provo, Uah
  5.7
As with most other climbs on this wall, Flakes is super epic. Good nut placements, though I wish I would've had some midsize offsets, eg. DMM Peenuts. Best done with mostly nuts. Also I would recommend using a 70m rope.

Ed and Terry is a world class crag. Aug 23, 2016
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Stout for a 5.7. This is to 5.7's what Satan's Corner in LCC is to 5.8's. Thrilling, delicate, fun moves, good gear. Offset stoppers work really nicely. I also had good placements for a 1, 2, and 3 mastercam. Thought this was an overall more enjoyable climb than Maincrack. Apr 24, 2013
This is one of the best routes for practicing stopper/nut placements. There are plenty of holds, but few that you can lean back on. Teaches good balance and good small-med nut placement. No cams needed. Mar 13, 2012
Greg- bingo! Oct 20, 2011
Greg Halliday
Spanish Fork, UT
Greg Halliday   Spanish Fork, UT
Jim Knight said: "Years ago, I personally heard a visiting climber (with FA credits of the Salathe and N.A. Walls on El Cap—plus Lotus Flower Tower in Canada—among many others) say this while climbing the Flakes route:
"I always dreamed of a route like this." "

Tom Frost perchance? If he really climbed here, that's wickedly awesome! Oct 18, 2011
Years ago, I personally heard a visiting climber (with FA credits of the Salathe and N.A. Walls on El Cap—plus Lotus Flower Tower in Canada—among many others) say this while climbing the Flakes route:
"I always dreamed of a route like this."
Perhaps we need to climb outside of Utah Valley AND to appreciate how good we have it?
maximum stars. no contest. May 24, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
My first time up (several years ago) I was pretty scared by what I perceived to be substantial runouts and marginal gear. I did it again today and thoroughly enjoyed it. I still think that Main Crack is better, but this is a pretty great climb. This route is very doable with just a set of nuts. Aug 13, 2009
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
Awesome climb! The best 5-7 I have ever done. Not saying much, but still a stellar climb. That being said about 1/3 of the way up there is a very loose flake. I don't know if that is recent or not, but I imagine it is. Just be careful, a falling flake off of this climb could be really bad for your belayer or climbers on red slab. Jul 6, 2009
Adam Wilson
Provo, UT
  5.7
Adam Wilson   Provo, UT
  5.7
Christian told me for years that this is the best route in rock canyon. I didn't believe him.
He was wrong. This is one of the best 5.7's anywhere. Oct 27, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Yeah, I'm one of those guys that gives it two stars. I just wasn't too impressed with the route.

Crisco said: "As good as trad gets in R.C." I disagree. I think that routes like Main Crack, Green Monster, and even the routes on the north side of Bolt Slab are better than this. I dunno... It's been a few years, maybe I should go do it again... May 10, 2008
What were those guys who only gave this route 2 stars thinking? This route is as good as trad gets in R.C. May 9, 2008
If you have a 60M rope the best way to do it is to climb up to the landing directly below the Main Crack. The lead climber will have to climb about 15 feet up and about 10 feet to the right to the first bolt. But to the first bolt isn't too bad. (This will also save you from climbing through vegetation) Also do a figure 8 in the end of your rope, you have just enough to come back down, but with no rope to spare.Also belayer be careful (especially with climbers heavier then you) - with the first bolt being at an angle the rope will pull you towards it. The landing is at an angle as well so if the climber falls or is being lowered you may be pulled down. I recommend you anchor yourself to the rocks on the other side of the landing, you won't regret it. Sep 2, 2005
Lee Jensen
  5.7
Lee Jensen  
  5.7
You can top rope this with a 60m if you have the climber traverse the little ledges at the base. Make sure you tie a knot in the rope on the belayer side. Because, you will run out of rope when lowering. It would be a shame to let the rope slip through your belay device, dropping your partner below the ledges then tumble 300 feet to the base of red slab.

Great route. protects really well with nuts. Two bomber blots on the way up. Double anchor at the top, each with double rings. Aug 12, 2005