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Lucky Streak
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.5 from 6
votes
Routes in Ed and Terry Wall
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Blind Date S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Edge of Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Edge of the World T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Real McCoy S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Jim Knight |
| Page Views: | 1,247 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Perin Blanchard on Apr 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
A heady, exciting route that runs "across-the-grain" of the main Ed and Terry.
The line starts near the left side of the main wall and trends up and right crossing several other routes on the way to a position at the top of the wall that is directly above the start of Main Crack.
Start below the gray-colored bolt visible near the left side of the main wall, and trend generally up and right. Surmount a thin section above the third bolt and climb directly over the lump up whose right edge Flakes climbs.
Continue up and right, clipping a few of the bolts on Call it a Knight and eventually cross Main Crack.
Put in a cam (a #2 or a #3 Camalot will work) and continue (wait for it...) up and right past a final bolt not shared with any other route, and then to the chains.
With a 70m rope it is possible to lower to the base of Main Crack. With anything shorter, someone will have to follow the route. The route goes up and over about 130 feet or so (the top is about 40 feet right of the start), but the location to which you lower is higher than where you started.
The line starts near the left side of the main wall and trends up and right crossing several other routes on the way to a position at the top of the wall that is directly above the start of Main Crack.
Start below the gray-colored bolt visible near the left side of the main wall, and trend generally up and right. Surmount a thin section above the third bolt and climb directly over the lump up whose right edge Flakes climbs.
Continue up and right, clipping a few of the bolts on Call it a Knight and eventually cross Main Crack.
Put in a cam (a #2 or a #3 Camalot will work) and continue (wait for it...) up and right past a final bolt not shared with any other route, and then to the chains.
With a 70m rope it is possible to lower to the base of Main Crack. With anything shorter, someone will have to follow the route. The route goes up and over about 130 feet or so (the top is about 40 feet right of the start), but the location to which you lower is higher than where you started.
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