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Routes in Ed and Terry Wall

Blind Date S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge of the World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Real McCoy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 588 total · 6/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 22, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A heady, exciting route that runs "across-the-grain" of the main Ed and Terry.

The line starts near the left side of the main wall and trends up and right crossing several other routes on the way to a position at the top of the wall that is directly above the start of Main Crack.

Start below the gray-colored bolt visible near the left side of the main wall, and trend generally up and right. Surmount a thin section above the third bolt and climb directly over the “lump” up whose right edge Flakes climbs.

Continue up and right, clipping a few of the bolts on Call it a Knight and eventually cross Main Crack.

Put in a cam (a #2 or a #3 Camalot will work) and continue (wait for it...) up and right past a final bolt not shared with any other route, and then to the chains.

With a 70m rope it is possible to lower to the base of Main Crack. With anything shorter, someone will have to follow the route. The route goes up and over about 130 feet or so (the top is about 40 feet right of the start), but the location to which you lower is higher than where you started.

Location

Starts below the gray-colored bolt near the left side of the main wall and trends up and right to chains directly above the start of Main Crack.

Protection

10 bolts, chains, a #2 or #3 Camalot-sized cam, slings, and possibly a few small nuts for supplemental protection.

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