Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: "Ed"
Page Views: 7,936 total · 45/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Sep 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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This is a great route that screams to all climbers entering Rock Canyon for the first time, "Come climb me!" It is situated high up above the road and is a perfect crack that splits the Ed and Terry Wall.

The route eats up as much hand size gear as you have. But be warned, you might need to get creative if you only have a standard trad rack and don't like to take long falls. But really, how can you fall out? The crack is that good! (Okay, if your crack technique is weak, you could possibly fall out...)

"Main" crack sums it up. Climb up the obvious crack through a roof and follow it as it curves left until it tops out at chains.

Descent: A 60 meter rope will reach the ground. A 50 meter rope won't. I was able to set up a toprope for my second using a 60 meter, but it just barely reaches.


A standard trad rack works, however, you will love having as many #2 and #3 camalots (or their equivalents) as you own. Actually, you don't really need a standard rack, just the size I mentioned above.
Lee Jensen
Lee Jensen  
Approach: The Main Crack is barely visiable from the Rock Canyon trailhead. It is the biggest crack that splits the large wall sitting above the Red Slab (on the South side of the canyon). Start your appraoch just as you would for Red Slab. Go all the way to the South of Red Slab and scramble up the 5.2 rocks (with the assistance of a fixed cable that goes over the "dicey" parts at the top of Red Slab. Then scamble up the next smaller rock face and traverse up the small ravine to the Main Crack.

First time I did this route I placed all my larger cams at the bottom and ended up running out the last 30 feet because there was no where to stick smaller pieces up above. However, the crack is really secure and limited protection shouldn't be too much of a probably if you don't have a lot of medium/large cams.

The bulge in the middle of the route forms the crux.

There is a two bolt anchor with chains at the top. Oct 15, 2004
Abe Tomco
Abe Tomco  
This is the climb that I learned to trad/crack climb on. I love it and it is still fun to climb every time. The climb tops out around 300 feet above the canyon trail, giving a great feeling of exposure. Bring lots of med-large size cams or hexes. Make sure to save 3-4 big pieces for the second half. Just like the guy above I ran out of big pieces after the crux and had to run it out (we're talking ground fall) wearing approach shoes. Oct 22, 2004
Mark Gillis  
I think this is one of the finest 5.7's Rock Canyon has to offer. For those sport climbers that can't imagen how a 5.7 would be hard, remember this is a trad climb, with no bolts till the top, and needing a creative approach to make a standard rack place even protection to the top. Its a different game, and a lot of fun. Aug 20, 2005
Climbing this route was a blast! Being that I don't have any trad equipment I had to toprope with the Flakes anchors (just to the left). There is an overhang about 2/3 the way up that can be a little on the daunting side, but if you wedge yourself up so your back is supporting you, you can reach up with a free hand to a very nice grip just over the overhang. Sep 2, 2005
Ok route. The approach is a nightmare while carrying all your trad gear, and the belay spot is more or less a rock slide. I must of sent five or so 20 lb rocks hurling down over Red Slab (as I crossed my fingers hoping no one would be hit). The crux is in the middle just at the small roof. The face is so littered with holds that you really have to force yourself to stay in the crack. Save your big stuff for last. The chains are in a lousy spot, so if you're looking to toprope it, plan to extend the chains out six feet or face the possibility of major rope wear. Believe me I am a fan of trad climbing, but I would recommend just going up to Green Monster Crack rather than doing this one. Nice view though... Jul 25, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
I toproped this one about a million years ago and just finally led it this morning. Wow. This is a freaking fantastic climb. Great rock, long, steep, with bomber gear, great location... How could a single pitch 5.7 trad route get better?? Apr 23, 2009
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Fun climb, easy going and never asking for to much commitment. Only recommendation is that if you like to climb protected, bring (3) BD #3's, just before the roof, on top of the roof and a little bit higher than that. ~3.5 fits down lower, but not higher...beginning and end of the route offers lots of solid options in the .75,1,and 2 sizes. May 1, 2009
I don't think the approach is that bad at all. It's like an 8 minute walk to Red Slab, and it's not that far above that.

The route protects well without doubles in any cam sizes if you bring a few hexes also. May 29, 2009
Thomas Holmes
Thomas Holmes   Utah
Really really good. Assortment of small gear for the start. Once you enter the hand crack it stays very consistent in size 3 Camalots (I placed 4 or 5). Number 5 Camalot fits the roof/crux really well. Nov 1, 2011
This is the route I learned to trad on many years ago. It is not that bad and go for beginners. Save your 2’s and 3’s for the second half of the climb. May 30, 2012
James Leavy
Provo, Uah
James Leavy   Provo, Uah
One of the best routes up rock canyon for sure. A lot of great diversity for protection and great practice spotting new types of placements.

If you're creative with your placements, you don't necessarily need more than 1 rack of cams. though without cams extra you need large nuts and maybe a hex (bd6-8). Though if you are squeamish i would bring 3 large hand size cams (BD/DMM/WC Blue Cam). Mar 10, 2015
Eli Peterson
Eli Peterson   Orem
First trad climb ever. It was a great first because it could be both face and crack climbed depending on your style Jul 5, 2015
Ky Watson
Provo Utah
Ky Watson   Provo Utah
Awesome climb! lots of good jams. I used 1 set of bd cams a couple stoppers and a couple medium-large hexes it was a little runout at the top. Mar 15, 2017
Tyler N
Salt Lake City, UT
Tyler N   Salt Lake City, UT
I walked a #3 for about thirty feet after the small roof. Worked just fine, the crack is so secure. Amazing crack to teach people how to handjam. Apr 23, 2017
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
What a classic route! If this was in a more popular quartzite area like BCC it would be crowded all the time. A lot of comments here make it sound as thought a double or even single rack of cams is sufficient to protect yourself, but really to adequately protect this thing you need probably 4 BD #3's or equivalent sized hexes. In fact, after the roof it really pretty much only takes #3's for the last 50 ft. The crack is really secure, so if you have less you'll probably feel comfortable bumping or leap frogging pieces, just be aware that it takes that size for at least half of the crack. Oct 10, 2017