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Routes in Ed and Terry Wall

Blind Date S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge of the World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Real McCoy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Andy Knight
Page Views: 1,040 total, 9/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 19, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A pleasant jaunt up a slabby, lichen-covered face with an angled roof thrown in to keep it interesting. The position is pleasant and somewhat exposed-feeling.

Start up the slabby section below the roof, slinging a horn off to the left if desired, or placing gear in the corner crack on the right of the face. The climbing is fairly mellow with plenty of positive edges. Put a cam or two in the crack under the roof, move up near the upper edge and put a smallish cam (e.g., #.5 BD C4) in the crack over the roof.

Pull over the roof, clip the first bolt, and then travel parallel to the arete on solid, positive edges to the chains.

Location

This route climbs the left side of the slabby face that is to the immediate north of the main Ed and Terry Wall. Scramble up the angled ramp to the left of the main wall to the belay position.

Protection

4 bolts, slings, a couple of small to medium cams, chain anchors.

Photos

Well worth the effort. Fun committing moves through the bulge/roof to a cruiser upper face. Aug 13, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
This is a fun route! Cool moves over the roof and nice positive edges after that. Worth doing. Aug 13, 2009