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Routes in Ed and Terry Wall

Blind Date S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Knight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of the World T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Real McCoy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, TR, 35 ft
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 1,544 total · 11/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 28, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A short sport climb on rough quartzite. Low-angled with large holds until just before the first bolt. After that it's fairly steep, but not vertical. A huge jug with no feet for clipping the first bolt (unless you're taller than 5'10"). Then large, positive edges for feet and hands to the anchors.

Location

The left bolted route on "The Pinkie", which is a triangular structure to the left of the main Ed and Terry Wall. Approach as for Ed and Terry Wall.

Protection

3 bolts to cold shut anchors (shared with route to right). Anchors are easily accessible from the top.

Photos

Eric Hardester
Provo, Utah
  5.7
Eric Hardester   Provo, Utah
  5.7
Fun short climb, and like the rest of Ed and Terry's, some of the best rock in Rock Canyon. The cold shuts are solid, but I had a hard time getting my rope through the right one (9.8mm). Didn't abrade it, but had to really twist the rope back and forth to get it through. Oct 15, 2014

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