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Routes in Ed and Terry Wall

Blind Date S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge of the World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Real McCoy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Jason Klimek and Adam Wilson
Page Views: 1,915 total · 14/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 14, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

A short, low-angle, bolted route whose main redeeming feature is that it provides a different way to get to the base of the Ed and Terry wall from the top of the Red Slab.

Mossy in a couple of spots, and positive edges the whole way.

The anchor is above a ledge on which you can traverse left to get to the base of Ed and Terry proper.

Location

Starts to the right of the right-to-left-upward-sloping ramp that most people use to get to the base of the Ed and Terry wall from the area above the Red Slab.

Protection

4 bolts to chains (as well as tied cord in March 2007). Left of the anchor about 10 feet and a bit lower there is a bolt that you can clip as you scoot along the ledge (itÂ’d be a bumpy, nasty fall from the ledge - we belayed each other from the anchor to the bolt).

Photos

Lee Jensen
  5.2
Lee Jensen  
  5.2
There is actually another bolt right at the foot of the route (a couple inches above the ground). I would love to hear from the party who put up route what they were thinking with this bolt. I can only guess that they put up this route to practice their bloting skills, or to anchor their belayer.

If the route continued up the pilar it would actually be fairly fun for the final 15 feet (probably about 5.6/5.7), but as it is the route is mostly useful to teach a beginner how to lead, or as a fun route for small children. However, the approach up Red Slab is much harder then this "route". Mar 26, 2007
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
I've always assumed that such bottom bolts are put there so people could practice rope-solo leading. There are a few such bottom anchors in American Fork Canyon at Hard Rock.

(I added the bolt in the photo.) Mar 26, 2007
Adam Wilson
Provo, UT
 
Adam Wilson   Provo, UT
 
A friend and I bolted this route on lead from hooks.
the bottom bolt is because my wife is half my weight, and being pulled up low angle slab sucks.
We didn't go to the top of the Pillar is because it shifted under my friends body weight.
First route I ever put up, mostly as an access thing. Do what you will.
(the route was called "vote for your mom" and was originally rated 5.3. Jason Klemick and Adam Wilson) Mar 20, 2008
Bret Crapo
Springville, UT
 
Bret Crapo   Springville, UT
 
This route is rad! Thanks for the creative Ed and Terry aproach Adam. May 12, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I thought this route was surprisingly fun. Probably the best 5.3 I've done? I led it all on gear and didn't feel it was particularly runout or anything. I mean come on, it's 5.3... How much pro do you need? I also passed the anchors and continued up the big, right-arching crack that is visible in this pic. It was fun!

As of yesterday, there is one chain and another bolt without a chain on it.

See my comment on the Ed and Terry page for two more easy trad routes I did to the right of this one that have probably been done before but haven't been recorded. Oct 24, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
"...and continued up the big, right-arching crack..."

You're pretty brave. There's not a lot holding that block up. Oct 24, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Well, I tried avoiding the big block as much as possible. I didn't place any gear in the crack and just held on to the not-block side. Wasn't bad. Oct 24, 2008
Bret Crapo
Springville, UT
 
Bret Crapo   Springville, UT
 
If you climb this in flip flops, it becomes "A vote for carl's mom". Dec 1, 2008
Adam Wilson
Provo, UT
 
Adam Wilson   Provo, UT
 
one has a responsibility to vote for carl's mom, if you is able. Dec 2, 2008
I liked this. It was fun. A good way to get to Ed&Terry. You're going to be getting your rope out anyway. You might as well do it here. Aug 9, 2009
Carl Armstrong
Provo, UT
Carl Armstrong   Provo, UT
So, I finally get a Mountain Project account and find out that Bret and Adam have been making comments about my mom here. Of course, I've heard the same comments in person so nothing new there.

Anyways, Adam, you spelled Jason's last name wrong. Its 'Klimek' not 'Klimeck'. If someone could change that in the FA thing it would be cool. May 26, 2011
Tyson Taylor  
 
I enjoyed this route as an access to the upper routes, safer then scrambling up the left side and why not get a warm up in? Jun 8, 2011
Climbed this as an alternate approach to Ed and Terry. Surprisingly fun, actually. Would be a great first lead. Apr 1, 2012

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