Type: Sport, TR, 110 ft
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 6,128 total · 38/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 14, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is a long, bolted route straight up the main face of the Ed and Terry Wall. The climbing is straightforward on positive edges with the occasional sidepull and a pinch here and there. There are a couple of small bulges with tiny edges for feet that might make you question just what you are doing up 300 feet above the valley floor attached to a tiny little thread. Right before the last bolt there is a tiny roof/bulge that is kinda fun.

The crux for me was when the edges got smaller and the feet went off camber for a move or two. The psychological crux was looking up to the next bolt each time and thinking, “I’ve gotta go that far on these little edges?”

A 70 meter rope is recommended. After lowering our 70m rope had about 15 feet left including the tie-ins. You might be able to use a 60m rope if you belay from the next platform up and to the right (base of Main Crack) and rappel or lower to a narrow ledge about 10 feet up, then downclimb. If you use a 60m definitely knot the end or tie the belayer in.

Location

After getting to the base of Ed and Terry via the ramp that slopes up from right to left look at the base and right about fifteen or twenty feet. There is a small “platform” from which you can belay. There is a crack behind a flake on the platform’s right and small bush just up and to the right of the flake. This location is directly below the anchors; the climb makes a shallow curve to the right and then back towards the anchors.

Protection

8 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors. The first bolt is quite high (probably between fifteen and twenty feet), but the climbing to there is relatively easy and there is a crack for pro (a small to medium nut or a small cam) 5 or 6 feet before the first bolt.

Photos