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Routes in Ed and Terry Wall

Blind Date S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge of the World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Real McCoy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, TR, 110 ft
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 5,181 total · 37/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 14, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Description

This is a long, bolted route straight up the main face of the Ed and Terry Wall. The climbing is straightforward on positive edges with the occasional sidepull and a pinch here and there. There are a couple of small bulges with tiny edges for feet that might make you question just what you are doing up 300 feet above the valley floor attached to a tiny little thread. Right before the last bolt there is a tiny roof/bulge that is kinda fun.

The crux for me was when the edges got smaller and the feet went off camber for a move or two. The psychological crux was looking up to the next bolt each time and thinking, “I’ve gotta go that far on these little edges?”

A 70 meter rope is recommended. After lowering our 70m rope had about 15 feet left including the tie-ins. You might be able to use a 60m rope if you belay from the next platform up and to the right (base of Main Crack) and rappel or lower to a narrow ledge about 10 feet up, then downclimb. If you use a 60m definitely knot the end or tie the belayer in.

Location

After getting to the base of Ed and Terry via the ramp that slopes up from right to left look at the base and right about fifteen or twenty feet. There is a small “platform” from which you can belay. There is a crack behind a flake on the platform’s right and small bush just up and to the right of the flake. This location is directly below the anchors; the climb makes a shallow curve to the right and then back towards the anchors.

Protection

8 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors. The first bolt is quite high (probably between fifteen and twenty feet), but the climbing to there is relatively easy and there is a crack for pro (a small to medium nut or a small cam) 5 or 6 feet before the first bolt.

Photos

Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
WOW!!! Climbed this route for the first time last last night 4.30.09 and I can say that this was one of the most enjoyable climbs I've done in Rock Canyon. Hats off to Jim for putting up this route! Absolutely perfect. The Rock is of superb quality and even though the bolts seemed to be spaced a touch, EVERYTHING is there for a safe fun lead. Any climber who is trying to break from the 5.9 range into the 5.10 range should jump on this. I used a medium nut about 8 feet below the first bolt. Highly recommend this route 4 stars. May 1, 2009
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
An awesome lead, very well bolted. Its safe, for the solid 5-10 climber, but pretty scary if you ask me. Jul 17, 2009
Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
  5.9
Jon Bitter   Waco, Tx
  5.9
I did this on a 60m rope and had to untie and downclimb about 20 ft. We actually started out on flakes by accident and then traversed at the first bolt, so if you pick the correct line and belay spot it might not be so far, but still, be prepared to untie while clinging to the wall. May 22, 2010
Alma Madsen
Foster City, CA
 
Alma Madsen   Foster City, CA
 
Awesome climb! There were two cruxes for me. Around the 5/6th and 8th bolts. Did it with a 60m rope just fine, but had to start up the hill a bit. May 30, 2010
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Gear can be placed to protect getting to the first bolt. Mar 29, 2016
Ky Watson
Provo Utah
  5.10-
Ky Watson   Provo Utah
  5.10-
Doesn't get much better than this in rock canyon. This route is a must do if you're are visiting Provo. however felt more like a 5.9 to me maybe one 5.10 move. We placed a small cam before the first bolt but it was unnecessary. Mar 10, 2017

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