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Routes in Ed and Terry Wall

Blind Date S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge of the World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Real McCoy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bart Dahneke
Page Views: 1,264 total, 11/month
Shared By: Christian Knight on May 8, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The bolts may be far apart but the potential to deck is quite low. Exciting moves to the lip of the overhang. Beautiful face climbing on immaculate quartzite. Gives you a proper lead head and a sense of accomplishment. Just commit and you'll see.

Location

Blank looking face in the middle of the wall. Climbs through the middle of the overhang right of Main Crack. Lower or rappel off with a 60 meter rope.

Protection

4 bolts to chain anchors. You can place some small gear between the bolts.

Photos

I'd highly recommend not climbing this without gear as there are only 4 bolts each spaced out about 15 feet apart. The start to the first bolt is about twenty feet. Mar 13, 2014
AJ Dexter
Portland, OR
 
AJ Dexter   Portland, OR
 
Super awesome climb. Some commitment and you can work out the "blank" section for sure. Definitely recommend gear placements if you are squeamish. Sep 5, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
An intimidating and exhilarating climb.

I wouldn't call it a sport route. I slung a couple of horns and used (very) small nuts before the bolts, between the first and second bolts, and above the bolts. If you don't use the gear...Christian is right, the potential for decking is remote, but a fall would be long and potentially damaging. But if you use gear, this route isn't R-rated.

The roof is intimidating, but surprisingly, turning it is not the most difficult bit. May 9, 2008