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Routes in Ed and Terry Wall

Blind Date S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge of the World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Real McCoy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,963 total, 18/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Sep 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


56 Opinions

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Description

This is a really fun route, I am not sure why I am not giving it 3 stars... perhaps because I liked Main Crack so much.

It is 5.7, but the moves are tenuous in places, and it is exciting for a bolted route.

This climb starts about 30 feet up hill from the Main Crack and climbs the face following 4 bolts until you reach a left facing corner. This corner (which turns into a crack as it approaches the two bolt anchor) takes small cams and nuts.

Protection

There are 5 bolts, plus a couple of medium to large nuts for the section after the last bolt..

Two bolts/chains for an anchor. I rapped with a 60 meter rope and set up a toprope easily.

Photos

Brock Jones
Provo, UT
  5.9
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
  5.9
Felt just a tad easier than Call it a Knight, so I'd say this .9. I'd definitely recommend bringing some gear to protect the section between the final bolt and the chains. I placed a .3 and .4 X4, though a medium nut would work as well. Oct 10, 2017
Benjamin Anderson
  5.9- PG13
Benjamin Anderson  
  5.9- PG13
Hey guys, I was just climbing up here the other day and might have left my jamming gloves at the base, or near the base of Main Crack (both of which are a blast by the way). I live in Provo but am a full time student and can't afford to just run over there real quick till maybe the weekend. I've had a bit of stuff stolen in the canyon so if anyone is heading up that way I would really appreciate you getting a hold of those for me. Thank you so much!

253.753.6542

Sep 20, 2017
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
To protect getting to the first bolt, you can traverse in from the left using gear. Mar 29, 2016
ClimbingUte
  5.8+
ClimbingUte  
  5.8+
Great route, really fun! I've noticed the run-out on the last bolt. Otherwise, it seems harder than the 5.7 rating it's given. Climbing other routes on this wall like Main Crack (.7) & Call it a Knight (.10a) as well as everything on Red Slab, I would suggest it's closer to a .9 (or .8+) in comparison. Just my two cents. Apr 28, 2014
Dakota Belliston
Spanish Fork, UT
  5.8
Dakota Belliston   Spanish Fork, UT
  5.8
02/16/2014
I love this route ! Great climb that has it all their. Lots of small crimp grips. I would not reccemond the lead climb on this wall secondary to safety. Last 30 ft is without bolts meaning if you slip you got a good 60 ft drop. Could use another 1-2 bolts to make it a good lead climb. Be safe & have fun !!! Feb 18, 2014
Climbed this yesterday without any trad gear. It was doable, but perhaps not the best idea; the bolts were fairly spaced, as others have mentioned, especially the last one. Probably 20-25 ft between the last bolt and the chains. Anchor bolts starting to look a little rusty, but still solid. I don't think I'd climb this again without a few nuts on my rack. Apr 1, 2012
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Really fun climb, and more thought-provoking that most 5.7s. Not a gimme at the grade. As others have said, the piton is no longer there. I placed a nut and a cam in the crack above the bolts. The spacing between the bolts may cause a beginner leader's pulse to quicken a bit, especially if you're used to the close spacing of newer routes. All in all, a great climb! Oct 5, 2008
AJ Dexter
Portland, OR
 
AJ Dexter   Portland, OR
 
There isn't a pin anywhere that I could find on the final section after the fifth bolt. I placed a #7 BD stopper to protect. Sep 5, 2008
Alex Headman
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Alex Headman   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
We climbed this a couple weeks back. There isn't a pin in the route anymore, the only fixed protection is the 4 bolts, which was a bit of a shocker. Be sure and bring some nuts to protect the final 30-40 feet. Jul 7, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
5 bolts before the flake on top. I placed two nuts after the last bolt (and clipped the manky old piton). Aug 26, 2006
Lee Jensen
  5.7+
Lee Jensen  
  5.7+
This route is doable without any trad gear. However, the bolts are fairly far apart and the first couple clips might make you nervous unless you climb well above this level. There is definitely the possibility of a nasty crater fall. Feb 15, 2005