Edge of the World
Avg: 3.3 from 19 votes
Routes in Ed and Terry Wall
|Blind Date S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Edge of Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Edge of the World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Real McCoy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|Page Views:||2,464 total, 21/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on Mar 25, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionAn exciting lead on the best wall in Rock Canyon.
Climb up a bit to a bolt with a dark gray, painted hanger. Just before the bolt is a decent horn to sling if you choose.
Continue up past another bolt to the left edge of a large flake (Flakes climbs up the other side of this feature).
Climb up to and past a small roof that abuts the flake and then continue to the bottom right of the final roof. Up and over the roof to the first of three modern bolts. Continue on to the chains, trending left just a bit.
ProtectionTwo bolts at the start, and then good gear to the small roof that appears a bit past midway on the route. Three more bolts to the anchors. Being a chicken, I put a supplemental nut between the penultimate and the last bolt.
I used several small nuts (including a couple of BD Micro Nuts) and several cams, including a BD C3 #2, and DMM #1.75, #2, #2.5, and #3 (same sizes as Friends).
This is listed in the Ruckman guide as 5.8 R, but I didn't think it was R, or really even PG13. Perhaps it was modern gear, or perhaps just wishful thinking (some of the placements were pretty small, and it is quartzite which does tend to brittleness).
If you plan on lowering off or slingshot toproping Edge of the World it is just barely doable with a 70m rope. Make absolutely sure that the belayer is tied in to the rope, because a 70m probably doesn't reach all the way up and back down (mine was a little more than 10 feet short, but I measured it a while back at 66m unstretched). Have the lowering climber end up left or right of the belayer up the wall just a bit on one of the small ledges.
Rappelling with a 70m would be tricky; I wouldn't risk it.
LocationOn the left side of the main Ed and Terry Wall there are two medium-sized, angled roofs. Edge of the World starts on a line just to the right of the place where the upper of the two angled roofs terminates.
The start is pretty obvious because of the bolt with the gray-painted hanger. Note that I have seen two different printed topos for Edge of the World, each with a slightly different start. One shows Edge of the World starting a bit right of the above-mentioned location (i.e., bypassing the starting bolts); why you would start there is a mystery because you would just end up climbing to the left to get on the left side of the large flake mentioned in the description.