Avg: 3.1 from 27 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft (36 m)|
|Page Views:||3,059 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on Mar 25, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Climb up a bit to a bolt with a dark gray, painted hanger. Just before the bolt is a decent horn to sling if you choose.
Continue up past another bolt to the left edge of a large flake (Flakes climbs up the other side of this feature).
Climb up to and past a small roof that abuts the flake and then continue to the bottom right of the final roof. Up and over the roof to the first of three modern bolts. Continue on to the chains, trending left just a bit.
I used several small nuts (including a couple of BD Micro Nuts) and several cams, including a BD C3 #2, and DMM #1.75, #2, #2.5, and #3 (same sizes as Friends).
This is listed in the Ruckman guide as 5.8 R, but I didn't think it was R, or really even PG13. Perhaps it was modern gear, or perhaps just wishful thinking (some of the placements were pretty small, and it is quartzite which does tend to brittleness).
If you plan on lowering off or slingshot toproping Edge of the World it is just barely doable with a 70m rope. Make absolutely sure that the belayer is tied in to the rope, because a 70m probably doesn't reach all the way up and back down (mine was a little more than 10 feet short, but I measured it a while back at 66m unstretched). Have the lowering climber end up left or right of the belayer up the wall just a bit on one of the small ledges.
Rappelling with a 70m would be tricky; I wouldn't risk it.
The start is pretty obvious because of the bolt with the gray-painted hanger. Note that I have seen two different printed topos for Edge of the World, each with a slightly different start. One shows Edge of the World starting a bit right of the above-mentioned location (i.e., bypassing the starting bolts); why you would start there is a mystery because you would just end up climbing to the left to get on the left side of the large flake mentioned in the description.