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Routes in Ed and Terry Wall

Blind Date S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call it a Knight S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captured For Rapture T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
DJW Memorial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipthong T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge of the World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge-n-Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Kiss T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Skuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotwired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Not Lichen This S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I.D. Claire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lucky Streak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Main Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neosymian Thugs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Way In Hell T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Real McCoy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roaches on a Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Vote for Your Mom S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Y Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,464 total, 21/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 25, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

An exciting lead on the best wall in Rock Canyon.

Climb up a bit to a bolt with a dark gray, painted hanger. Just before the bolt is a decent horn to sling if you choose.

Continue up past another bolt to the left edge of a large flake (Flakes climbs up the other side of this feature).

Climb up to and past a small roof that abuts the flake and then continue to the bottom right of the final roof. Up and over the roof to the first of three modern bolts. Continue on to the chains, trending left just a bit.

Protection

Two bolts at the start, and then good gear to the small roof that appears a bit past midway on the route. Three more bolts to the anchors. Being a chicken, I put a supplemental nut between the penultimate and the last bolt.

I used several small nuts (including a couple of BD Micro Nuts) and several cams, including a BD C3 #2, and DMM #1.75, #2, #2.5, and #3 (same sizes as Friends).

This is listed in the Ruckman guide as 5.8 R, but I didn't think it was R, or really even PG13. Perhaps it was modern gear, or perhaps just wishful thinking (some of the placements were pretty small, and it is quartzite which does tend to brittleness).

If you plan on lowering off or slingshot toproping Edge of the World it is just barely doable with a 70m rope. Make absolutely sure that the belayer is tied in to the rope, because a 70m probably doesn't reach all the way up and back down (mine was a little more than 10 feet short, but I measured it a while back at 66m unstretched). Have the lowering climber end up left or right of the belayer up the wall just a bit on one of the small ledges.

Rappelling with a 70m would be tricky; I wouldn't risk it.

Location

On the left side of the main Ed and Terry Wall there are two medium-sized, angled roofs. Edge of the World starts on a line just to the right of the place where the upper of the two angled roofs terminates.

The start is pretty obvious because of the bolt with the gray-painted hanger. Note that I have seen two different printed topos for Edge of the World, each with a slightly different start. One shows Edge of the World starting a bit right of the above-mentioned location (i.e., bypassing the starting bolts); why you would start there is a mystery because you would just end up climbing to the left to get on the left side of the large flake mentioned in the description.

Descent

Lower (carefully) with a 70m rope, or walk off south from the top, down the gully a ways, then back to the face.

Photos

I setup a top rope to try this for the first time. My 70m rope was just enough - I ended up with the knots on the end just below my ATC when I was standing on the ground. The climb is a great one - a few jugs here and there, but mostly smaller holds and balancy moves. The anchors at the top are super beefy Metolious hangers on what look like 1/4" bolts. I'd love to buy new hardware if someone wants to supervise the replacement. Jun 9, 2016
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
I thought this route was superb. After the two bolts to start the route I only placed gear. I think I stayed right of the last bolts at the top and just followed natural pro which stayed consistent with the overall difficulty of the route. I believe I finished on the anchor to the right of where I should've, but I didn't even know the route finished on bolts until I got back down and looked at MP on my phone.

I highly recommend my all-gear-finish variation. Just follow the cracks, it's a very straight, logical line (as I mentioned, I didn't even ever stop to look for bolts, just assumed I stayed in the cracks).

I've been very impressed with all of the routes on Ed & Terry. Aug 18, 2014