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Routes in Sunset Wall

AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981
Page Views: 281 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Not a new climb but rather, unknown and unpublished. More info would be great.
A pretty good climb that requires some focus. Start up on a set of vertical flakes, then move to the right side and up, steming and clinging with some smears up and into a good stance on the right-leaning crack and a good hold to clip the first pin (so-so soft iron). Head up past this pin for a few long moves to clip a good angle and, making crux moves along the way (perhaps 5.9) and access a better crack and better gear- this line will continue to a good ledge just below a dead tree with rotten webbing on it.
To belay, move slightly south on the ledge to the live tree with a reasonable anchor (a retired daisy-chain, set up with double-pass throughs so as to be completely self-redundant) with a locking biner. This is also the standard rap for the area.

Location

Perhaps below the center of the massive roof at the mid-height of the wall, there are a set of older climbs, each of which follows a right-leaning crack system past 2 pins. The left of these is left of a left-facing corner to the left of a large bulge ('2 Pins Left') and the Right follows a set of parallel cracks just right of the right side of the same bulge ('2 pins Right'). Between is a right-leaning and quite overhanging system of flakes and seams, known as SILI?

Protection

2 fixed pins plus a standard light rack of stoppers and cams. The first pin is a stamped soft-iron, the second a good angle. The climb is a little 'heads up' but pretty safe with some attentive placements.
Belay and rap from the tree just south on the ledge.

Photos

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This route is called AC-DC. FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane 1981 Jul 29, 2008