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Routes in Sunset Wall

AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jason Haas and Tony Bubb, 10/4/07
Page Views: 201 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

A good climb that starts off slow, but gets more interesting as you go. The crux fingercracks difficulty will be height-dependent, and runs about 5.8 for an average height male.... It could get very hard for someone short.

There is a large, left-facing dihedral, with cracks splitting the wall on its right side. The climb ascends the cracks on the right side of the corner to reach the arete, then up the arete to a small ledge- Climb past the ledge through a small roof on good finger locks and a stem with good gear (5.8 crux, but this could be substantially harder for short leaders). Finish at a good tree and belay.

Location

Perhaps below the center of the massive roof at the mid-height of the wall, and perhaps 50 feet uphill of the "2 pins" area....

Protection

A standard light rack of cams and stoppers. The anchor up top is a large tree.
To descend, go downhill on the ledge until above the "2 pins" area and rap from a green sling and locking biner from a large tree on the ledge- 65' to the ground.

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